Mag476

The exact same problem is still occuring, so what was removed obviously had no effect on the problem that i'm having. HotspotShield is an OpenVPN software I use occasionaly and while it may considered malware it isn't malicious. And as for Vuescan that was just a piece of old software I had when attempting to get a very old scanner to work on a windows 7 OS, i've since bought the program from the developer once I found out that it worked. If I had genuinely bought all of the software I attempted to get my old scanner working with, i'd easily have spent over £800 for nothing, vuescan worked so I bought it. Try before you buy isn't such a bad thing. (the free trial on the website at the time didn't have sufficient privileges with it, windows 7 was relatively new around the time.) I'm going to to assume that you are no longer willing to help, in which case thanks for your help up to this point and please just remove this thread.

I'm using an ATI Radeon HD 4870X2, I do have multiple HDD's, 3 internal and 2 external all 1TB apart from my primary boot HDD. The external drives are not an issue as they're never on full-time. I will be first to admit that the computer is a 'bit' cluttered, I have alot of programs installed for various things from video editing / video encoding / 3d modelling / photo editing / audio editing / map editing / gaming (on a seperate hard drive). There's about 250GB of free space right now with pending files to be moved to external drives (I used it as a temp base for encoding bluray movies before this problem started happening.)

Hi, Starbuck. I got those scans from another PC help forum, with me having no experience with OTL I figured those scans would be better than nothing. I kindly asked the OP over at the other forums to close the thread after he asked that I remove P2P software (uTorrent) before we continued, so i've been looking around for help since. Now don't get me wrong, i'm well aware of the risks of using P2P software and if the problem is found to be P2P related then i'll gladly remove it, but the fact i've been using it for years without any problems doesn't even make it a suspect from my perspective. I did everything you mentioned in order, only the CKScan took a considerable amount of time, locking up the PC as it was scanning. Logs attached. ckfiles.txt 10042011_055025.txt

Yes even with nothing being indexed, still getting the memory spike.

Just a couple more things, did you try logging into a different account and seeing if it was visible that way? Guest account will work if you don't want to create a new one. There have been strange instances where this will work. Have you tried the external drive on another computer? and did you have the same results on the other machine? It could be that its trying to share a drive letter of an already in use drive, go back into disk management and see if changing the drive letter to something not currently registered. You can do this by right clicking on the volume in the top window (not the bottom), and changing it to something else.

Just tried that, it seems to definitely have something to do with the explorer process, I just tried disabling the search service but as soon as explorer starts it still slowly builds up to 100% Physical Memory usage and maintains, making the computer very very sloppy.

Hi, Heckler is the drive in question your primary boot device? is windows installed on this device? i'd recommend trying to run the HDD as a secondary boot device, and using another drive for primary boot (similar to slave). That's if you have another spare HDD drive just to temporarily run windows from. The information on the drive should be accessible that way. If you try this please make sure that you don't accidentaly format your external drive while creating a new partition on a new temporary boot device. (it happens :))

Doesn't look like the HDD is the problem. --------------- SeaTools for Windows v1.2.0.5 --------------- 02/10/2011 11:59:45 Model: ST3750640AS Serial Number: 5QD3PCC9 Firmware Revision: 3.AAE SMART - Pass 02/10/2011 11:59:45 Identify - Started 02/10/2011 12:00:23 SMART: Supported and enabled 48-bit Address feature set supported: True Max LBA: 1465149167 Host Protected Area features: Supported and enabled Mandatory Power Management: Supported and enabled Security Mode: Supported not enabled SET MAX security extension: Supported not enabled Advanced Power Managment: Not Supported Download Firmware: False SMART self-test supported: True SMART error logging supported: True Drive Temperature(C/F): 50/122 Power-On Hours: 18778 Identify - Started 02/10/2011 12:01:09 SMART: Supported and enabled 48-bit Address feature set supported: True Max LBA: 1465149167 Host Protected Area features: Supported and enabled Mandatory Power Management: Supported and enabled Security Mode: Supported not enabled SET MAX security extension: Supported not enabled Advanced Power Managment: Not Supported Download Firmware: False SMART self-test supported: True SMART error logging supported: True Drive Temperature(C/F): 50/122 Power-On Hours: 18778 Short Generic - Started 02/10/2011 12:01:36 Short Generic - Pass 02/10/2011 12:02:59 Short DST - Started 02/10/2011 12:04:16 Short DST - Pass 02/10/2011 12:06:48 Identify - Started 02/10/2011 12:09:34 Long Generic - Started 02/10/2011 15:32:27 Long Generic - Pass 02/10/2011 21:54:10 :eek:

I'd recommend you compare prices with these sites aswell. www.ebuyer.com www.scan.co.uk and one of my favourites.... google product search :D Looks like a solid rig, and that card supports DX11 for future games. Always a plus.

This could be many things, and it appears you are getting very heavy packet loss on a wired machine, which is most likely a router issue. Before we continue please do the following. Open up your start menu > in the search box type cmd and press enter. Then type in and press enter in the following order. ipconfig /release "Local Area Connection" ipconfig /flushdns ipconfig /renew "Local Area Connection" ipconfig /registerdnsNow thats over with, with cmd still open type in 'ping www.google.com' without quotes, do you still get any packet loss? Anyway lets continue... sorry for the long post. I'm just assuming that you have a wireless router which the laptops use for wireless internet, but this one machine is wired? because i'm not sure of your current wired map let's just go over a few things (ok alot :D). Open your Start Menu > Control Panel > Network and Sharing Center > In the top left Change Adapter Settings. Now before we proceed please login to your router via a web browser. usually 192.168.0.1 / 192.168.1.1, check your router box if you are unsure. Once you've logged in, check attached devices this should give you a list of currently connected devices and the IP for that machine. Note this down if you can. Next if it is indeed a wireless router try changing the mode to auto if its on g & b or g only, some channels/frequencies can cause intermittent connections over a network and may appear fine for the wireless user, but lock up the internet connection for other users. Now look for the DHCP setting in your router, is this enabled or disabled? i'm going to assume by default its enabled. Are all of the network adapters in your household set to obtain IP and DNS addresses automatically? (if you're unsure about this i'll explain below) Here is a list of things i'd like you to check in order. It appears you have a few network adapters that could be conflicting. Try disabling all but your primary network adapter (you can do this by right clicking on them and selecting disable, you can re-enable these later) which is 'Local Area Connection' with a description of 'Intel® PRO/1000 PL Network Connection'. Right click on your Network Connection and select properties. Select Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) then select properties. Are both IP and DNS boxes set to obtain automatically or use the following:? If your router does have DHCP enabled and you are set to obtain automatically it is possible that you've been assigned an to an ip that is out of your routers DHCP range (this does tend to happen, especially with wireless routers). Try setting a manual IP, now take note that the usual range for DHCP is 192.168.0.1 - 192.168.0.255 so for the last box choose anything inbetween say 10-245 to be safe(different ISP's may provide you with routers that start with different variations e.g. yours may be '192.168.1.1' or '192.168.10.1') if you get confused here, the ip that you used to login to your router is the template you're looking for. So it should look something like this: IP Address: 192.168.1.100 Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0 Default Gateway: enter the IP you used to login to your router. Preffered DNS Server: enter the ip you used to login to your router. Alternate DNS Server: can be left blank, unless you have an alternate. If you have made it this far and it's still not working, please set your adapter back to 'Obtain IP address automatically' and same for the DNS for the time being.

I'm currently running tests on my HDD, all tests so far have given a green light, but its doing a long generic scan right now which will take a few hours. I'm not using more than one anti-virus/firewall, I have Microsoft Security Essentials installed, and just using windows firewall, both appear to be working wonders, i've ran anti-virus/malware scans and everything appears fine there.

When you start up your computer do you hear any beeps? or does it just hang. If it makes it to the POST process and you hear any beeps, please refer to your motherboard user manual, there is usually a description for the POST ABC's in there. Here is a list if you do not have your mobo user manual. It could be that your GPU is not seated correctly, try removing and resitting your graphics card, this is usually the case for most no signal problems. 1 continuous long beep is usually the indicator for this problem.

Definitely sounds like a PSU problem, i've had similar problems in the past, changing the PSU fixed it instantly. In some cases the machine would not boot if any extrernal drives were connected using power, and generally wouldn't detect any usb devices. In extreme cases the biggest tell tale signs are the smell of burning rubber (not good at all), or just general overheating (intermittent shutdowns etc). Please replace your PSU and see if the problems remain, as using a faulty PSU can be very dangerous and cause more problems for your other hardware.

Hi, just out of curiosity are you using a wired or wireless network connection on the computer you're having problems with? Please download and run Ipcon, you can grab it here, extract it somewhere then run it, it will take about 1 minute to complete and you will see many cmd windows during the process, this is normal. Please post the reg.txt as an attachment to this thread when it has finished and i'll see what I can do. Note: If you have any antivirus software it may detect the file as a false positive, it is safe.