Stuck in a loop!

[KenB]

Hi Labi

 

giving no opportunity for the F key to override.

Try this ....

 

Switch off using the Power Switch - keep this pressed down even after the machine looks to have shut down.

After a further 10 seconds or so release the Power Switch.

 

Now press down - and hold down - the F9 key. [ keep this help down whilst doing the following ...]

Switch on using the Power On button.

 

Does this take you to the "Advanced Startup Screen" ?

 

If so - System Restore :)

 

If not - find a wall to bang your head on :)

 

=======================

 

I see the Fast Boot option is enabled and wonder if disabling would change anything...?

Yes you can give this a try.

As the title suggests - having this disabled will slow the boot process down.

However - as you are booting straight into the BIOS you may not notice any reduction in loading speed.

It will not do any harm to try :)

[Labi]

Hi Ken, Tried all of the above and more besides. Cancelled the Admin password requirement as well.

 

However, finally - after holding down Esc key and power-on, managed to effect a screen change!!

 

Now I'm faced with the choice "Please select boot device:"

Underneath..........................................Windows Boot Manager (PO: Toshiba MQO1ABF050) [to be exact!]

Enter Setup

...and below that - up & down arrows to move selection - Enter to select boot device.

 

Unsure which way to jump at this pivotal(?) moment....? Please advise!!

Thanks, Labi.

[KenB]

Hi Labi

 

Progress - hopefully :)

 

Toshiba MQO1ABF050

This is your hard drive - so select this.

 

You don't want to go back into "Set Up" as this will only take you back into the BIOS again.

 

Fingers crossed :)

[Labi]

Ken,

 

A false dawn, I'm afraid. Both options take me back into BIOS - unhelpfully.

From online articles I've read here and there, I'm coming to the conclusion that the unresponsive Hard Drive

may be frazzled. Last rites to be performed shortly!

 

Thanks again for all your patient and unambiguous advice these past few days.

 

Labi.

[KenB]

I'm coming to the conclusion that the unresponsive Hard Drive may be frazzled

I was thinking along the same lines. :(

 

There is another possibility [ although you say that the date and time were OK ]

It could be the CMOS battery.

This would entail taking the back panel off and removing some of the hardware so that you can replace it.

Some require the wires to be soldered to the battery. [ not sure with yours ]

 

We can also test the hard drive - but this involves taking the back off too.

 

Take a look at this video - it will explain. [ this is not your exact same model ]

 

 

If you decide to run a test on the hard disk we would need to connect it up to another working computer.

You could also backup any files and photos etc at this point.

 

Let me know what you want to do :)

[Labi]

Ken,

 

Thank you for staying with me - and ignoring the DNR notice!

The operation has begun. Lid lifted: vital organs exposed.

Battery leads are soldered. Don't think it's wise for me to mess about with it.

 

What I might try - if you're willing to take me through the process..(?) - is to

check for signs of life on the hard drive. I do have another PC available (Win 7)

with - I think - reasonable spare storage capacity. However, linking the two and transferring data

is not something I've done before, and I would of course like to keep the contents of each PC's memory,

separate as far as it's possible.

 

Bearing in mind I force-closed numerous times while suffering the original 'stuck in a loop' scenario:

will I be able to salvage data etc should the hard drive be beyond recovery....?

 

Best, Labi.

[KenB]

Hi Labi,

 

One thing we could try first is to disconnect the CMOS battery - follow the leads and hopefully there will be a connection that is easily taken off.

Disconnect this - wait for 30 seconds - connect it back up.

This will reset the BIOS to defaults.

 

You could try booting up again at this point.

 

Failing that ......

 

We need to remove the hard drive from the case.

 

Suggest that you take some photos as a reminder of where things are and how you have removed them.

 

To connect it up to another machine it is easiest to get hold of an enclosure [ caddy ]

This uses the USB port of the working machine.

You can then treat the problem hard drive as a memory stick to access your files and data.

 

See here - [ for examples only ]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dynamode-External-enclosure-Backup-Button/dp/B004ZDN7E4

 

Your hard drive will be 2.5 inch [ desktop drives are 3.5 inch ]

You need to search for "2.5 inch hard drive enclosure"

 

Yours will be SATA [the older drives are PATA - different connections ]

Also you may see USB 2.0 or USB 3.0

It doesn't matter which one you get. Both will be compatible. USB 3.0 is faster as long as your computer USB ports are 3.0

 

 

It is then a simple case of popping your drive into the case and connect it to a USB port.

If the drive is OK it will show up in "This PC" as a new drive letter - just as a memory stick would do.

 

This video shows what I am talking about - [ you may wish to turn your sound off to get rid of the background music ]

 

Edited March 25, 2018 by KenB

[Labi]

Ken,

 

The part which is closest to corresponding with the video you helpfully provided, doesn't

look quite the same!? Attached are two pics: one of the part/closed : one/open - that

is to say with the cover - rather like photograph paper - peeled back to expose.... well, I'm not sure what?

is this in fact the hard drive, and is that the CMOS battery in the middle?

Think I'm gradually going from the 'known-unknowns' into that other place....??

 

Best again, Labi.

[Rustys]

Yes that is the Hard Drive and no what is in the middle is not the CMOS battery.

 

Going by the video supplied the CMOS battery is located (about the size of a US quarter) in the bottom right if you have the hinge at the top.

[Labi]

Thanks for ID'ing the 'part'. However, in that case, I still haven't located the CMOS battery.

No obvious coin shaped disc anywhere on view. Is it likely to be underneath the

main battery which runs the length of one side, by any chance....?

 

My next question concerns the caddie for the hard drive. Does the entire

thing go into a caddie or does it require further dismantling first...?

Thanks for not giving up yet...

Labi.

[Rustys]

My next question concerns the caddie for the hard drive. Does the entire

thing go into a caddie or does it require further dismantling first...?

Thanks for not giving up yet...

The way you have the HDD in Post # 33 (far right) is as far as you have to go.

 

Thanks for ID'ing the 'part'. However, in that case, I still haven't located the CMOS battery.

No obvious coin shaped disc anywhere on view. Is it likely to be underneath the

main battery which runs the length of one side, by any chance....?

Will have to do some research some I have even found under the keyboard. Will see if I can find a manual with a diagram. There has been the occasion that I have seen some that do not have a CMOS battery at all.

[KenB]

Hi Labi,

 

Good to see that you have removed the hard drive.

 

If you look at your photo - there are 4 mounting brackets [at the corners ]

The aluminium projections with holes in.

This framework needs to be removed so that the hard drive can fit into the enclosure.

You can stick the small screws to cellotape or similar so you don't lose them.

 

This pic may explain what I am on about ......

The brackets/frameworks are not all the same :)

 

From your pics I can confirm that your drive is SATA [ from my previous post ]

 

Once you have the enclosure get back to us :)

There is no need to buy a really expensive one - I bought one a while back for a few ££ and it is perfectly OK.

Edited March 26, 2018 by KenB

[Labi]

Thank you Team!

Ordered 2.5 inch enclosure with 2.0 USB connectivity rather than 3.0 - based on reports that say

the hard drive itself is the slowest component influencing transfer speed(?)

Labi.

[KenB]

the hard drive itself is the slowest component influencing transfer speed(?)

Even hard drives are not all the same speed :)

The 2.0 will be fine for what you want to do.

 

Did you manage to remove the hard drive from the mounting case ?

[Labi]

Hi Ken

I did remove the HD successfully : it wasn't difficult once the screws were exposed.

Refused to sign-up to Amazon Prime (an expensive con!), so will have to wait for the regular service to deliver.

 

At the risk of introducing a new topic, can I digress for a sec? My alternative PC running Win 7, has 2 user sign-ins in operation.

The most heavily used side, with significant downloads - PDF files/photos/various additional programmes etc. - suffers from

stuttering playback on some videos & iPlayer too, even after tweaking various settings. The YouTube video

you attached recently was inclined to freeze but - when I played it again after logging in through the other user setting - on the same PC,

it ran without freezing! Does this mean the accumulation of 'stuff' on one User side can affect the PC's

performance in some situations..... while simply switching User may eliminate the problem?

 

Thanks again, Labi.

[Rustys]

From what I have found if there is one it may also be covered colored plastic and have two wires coming out of that to the motherboard. One black and one red. If you are unsure take a picture and post and or attach.

 

[Labi]

Found it! Tried to prise it up but it seems to be glued down. I didn't like to risk forcing it off after meeting (quite firm!) resistance.

Perhaps I should have another go as it probably ought to be replaced while everything else is being reviewed....?

[KenB]

Does this mean the accumulation of 'stuff' on one User side can affect the PC's

performance in some situations

No I don't think so.

It is more likely that the User Profile is corrupt in some way.

 

What % of the hard drive is free space ?

If this is at least 10% or so there should be no problem.

 

This is detracting from the original problem :)

Edited March 27, 2018 by KenB

[Rustys]

Found it! Tried to prise it up but it seems to be glued down. I didn't like to risk forcing it off after meeting (quite firm!) resistance.

Perhaps I should have another go as it probably ought to be replaced while everything else is being reviewed....?

Do not force it may end up with not so happy results.:(

[Labi]

I've taken another look at this 'part'. It's about 1 cm diameter and looks exactly like your picture except

that the cover is black and has the following code across it -

KTS

46 CR 1220W 3.ov.

After raising it - partially - again, it is definitely stuck down directly onto the board.

There is no battery beneath it! And yes, it has the same red & black wires connecting it

to a terminal 2 cms away.

 

Ken

Have now received the caddie and fitted the HD in place. The moment of truth is near!

Would appreciate your guidance from here about how to determine whether or not the

HD is in working order...?

 

Thanks, Labi.

[KenB]

Hi Labi,

 

First thing to do is to put the hard drive into the caddy.

Be gentle doing this - nothing needs to be forced.

It will, obviously, only fit one way.

 

Then connect up the USB lead to the USB port.

 

You should then be able to view your hard drive just as you would a memory stick.

 

You should be able to locate your files - photos etc.

From here you can copy them to the desktop of the Win7 machine.

 

You may wish to check how much free space you have on the Win7 machine.

Right Click on C: > click on Properties

It will tell you here.

 

Suggest that you create a folder on the Desktop.

Right click on a blank space - New - Folder.

You can re-name it "Backup" or whatever you want.

 

If you are unsure about transferring data to this folder just shout.

 

1. Let me know if your hard drive shows up as a drive letter [ could be E: ]

 

2. Let me know if you can navigate your way around the drive to locate your files etc.

 

==================

CR 1220W

This is your CMOS battery.

If you don't want to remove it because it is "stuck" - can you disconnect the red and black wires from the terminal?

If you can - disconnect for 30 seconds or so - then re-connect.

This will reset the BIOS to defaults.

Edited March 30, 2018 by KenB

[Labi]

Hi Ken

Right: it does show as drive E: but is followed by "Data (F:)" which, incidentally, appears to be an empty folder???

 

At this point it tells me that drive E: needs to be "formatted" - presumably, before it can be accessed/opened.

The good news is...recipient Acer PC has 204Gb free - and (donor) HD has 214GB free of 258GB !!

 

This suggest to me(!?) that I have 44GB of 'stuff' on the HD which should be accommodated easily on

the Acer Win 7 PC.

 

Will one folder contain everything in a coherent and accessible format btw...?

 

Thanks again....Labi.

[Labi]

Update re previous post:

 

It's taken some time for me to grasp, Data (F:) actually contains my 'stuff'!

Having now opened a new folder in Desktop, I can't find a way to transfer the contents of HD

to it. I'm sure it's really quite straight forward but....??

 

I did run a scan on files and possible 'bad sectors' which - surprisingly, gave a clean bill of health.

 

Managed to disconnect the CMOS - after ID'ing the part. BIOS settings now show original time & date.

Do you think the battery should be changed as a precaution? If so, I hope it comes with the plastic cover and

leads already in place, and not just a plain battery!

[Rustys]

At this point it tells me that drive E: needs to be "formatted" - presumably, before it can be accessed/opened.

A format will wipe the data from the drive hold off on that.

It's taken some time for me to grasp, Data (F:) actually contains my 'stuff'!

Having now opened a new folder in Desktop, I can't find a way to transfer the contents of HD

to it. I'm sure it's really quite straight forward but....??

Select a file to start from.

Scroll 6 six to eight files down.

Hold the shift key and then select the sixth or eight file.

Release the Shift key and use the keyboard and press Ctrl+C (copy selected files).

Now open the folder that you created on the other for the files to go into and press Ctrl+V (paste the selected copied files).

 

I usually do six to eight since some systems have issues transferring more than that (sometimes).

 

Now select the file just below the last file selected and select the next set of files to transfer.

 

Managed to disconnect the CMOS - after ID'ing the part. BIOS settings now show original time & date.

Do you think the battery should be changed as a precaution? If so, I hope it comes with the plastic cover and

leads already in place, and not just a plain battery!

Yes you can get the same battery.

I did run a scan on files and possible 'bad sectors' which - surprisingly, gave a clean bill of health.

That is a good sign.

[Labi]

Ken

So far unable to open Data (F:) to get the drop-down file list. Right clicking brings the usual options but expand doesn't

bring up a breakdown of contents (or anything else).

It's seems odd that opening the Computer screen shows - towards the bottom of the list: Acer (C:)

Local disk (E:)

Data (F:)

................without enabling either to be expanded?

 

Clicking E: eventually, either tells me it needs formatting before using - or causes PC to think for a while and if/when the properties box opens,

it looks as though the disk is completely empty/unused???

 

Following this, an info box opens with the message headed "Location Is Not Available"

saying underneath - E: \ is not accessible....

& again, underneath - Data Error (cyclic Redundancy check)

 

Confusingly, the Properties box under Data F: shows a portion of the disk in contrasting colour

to indicate that 44GB's is currently used.

 

Just can't seem to get the HD to give up its secrets. Very puzzled atm...!!??

 

Thanks & Happy Easter, Labi.