Starting your PC without the front panel power button

[Guest w_tom]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

On May 10, 1:18 am, "Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote:

> Sure, anyone can assemble a PC, yet not everyone can assemble one to the specs

> that it will operate properly. How electricity works has nothing to do with how

> one builds a PC.

 

Which is why the OP is discussing a power supply for $25 or, even

worse, $10. He is not alone. Many computers assemblers - including A

+ Certified Techs - need not learn how electricity works. Anybody can

assemble a computer that will boot - and is still defective. Without

electrical knowledge, they buy a power supply only on dollars and

watts.

 

Gary Terhune has asked the OP to perform some simplest and most

information tests. The OP instead does only what he understands. OP

repeatedly ignores the posts that would created definitive answers.

Why? He somehow knows which posts provide a useful answer but does

not even have basic electrical knowledge. IOW the best (most useful)

posts get ignored by the OP due to insufficient electrical knowledge.

 

What provides the most useful results? Tests that result in

numbers.

 

What provides that continuity tester, reports in seconds where the

problem is, and provides numbers so that others can post help? A 3.5

digit multimeter. Why would it answer all the OP's questions? That

answer is only obvious with basic electrical knowledge.

 

Any child can build a computer that boots. Even computers with

defective power supplies will still boot. Analysis of failure and

solving problems before that happens both require basic electrical

knowledge - ie the numbers.

[Guest attilathehun1]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

Ok, there is a reason I started a new thread. There are so many replys that I

am getting a bit overwhelmed. That's one of the reasons. I should say, that I

started a new thread. I'm sure you might be able to guess the rest.

I'm trying to print out by using selection and it's not giving me the

complete selection. That's very aggravating. This PC is a HP pavilion 503n

using a HP Deskjet 932C printer. Both HP devices and I'm not happy with both.

Anyways, getting back to the problem with the Gateway with the Pentium III.

The PC won't even fire up now. I'm fed up. This isn't even the PC that is

supposed to be in the living room. The PC in the living room went on the

blink, a DIY I built 3 years ago, and I bought a mobo/CPU combo with 500mb of

RAM, included free, from newegg.com. I'm not going to spend anymore time on

this Gateway PC. Ok, I'll spend 1 more day or give it 1 more shot. After that

if it doesn't fire up, I'm through with it.

I want to print out all the information that I've been receiving from all,

but like I said I'm overwelmed now with all these replys, and now my printer

isn't selecting what I select. My Dell 8300 with a Brother HL-1440 printer is

printing the selection fine except the size of the print is so small you

might have to use glasses to read it. I can read it, but anyone else might

have a problem reading it.

Ok, I want to take back what I said to Gary and not be hostile. I'm not an

SOB. I try and get along with everyone.

Alrighty, thanks for all the information.

attilathehun1

--

attilathehun1

 

 

"dadiOH" wrote:

> attilathehun1 wrote:

> > Ok, I did and I know from trial and error. That's exactly how the

> > last PC tech did it when I brought it into him. In fact, he lied. I

> > brought the PC into him and told him I didn't want to pay the 25

> > dollars and just to buy a power supply that fits the machine or

> > something to that nature.

>

> You mean to say that with all your skill and experience you were unable to

> go online and buy a power supply all by yourself? You might want to take

> that PC class over again.

> ______________

>

> > He told me don't worry, I'll do it just so

> > we get it right and there will be no problems.

> > Well I said ok, no probs go ahead then. When I saw the bill and said

> > wtf is this 25 bucks for? OH, that for me working on it. I said wtf

> > I thought you said you'd do it and just so it would be done right.

> > The mother... ripped me off. So, wtf am I to say in that situation. I

> > paid him and told him this would be the last time I brought my PC

> > into this PC store.

>

> Somehow, I doubt that he cares.

> ________________

>

> > Anotherwords, you (pl) don't no how to do it.

>

> The phrase is, "in other words".

>

> --

>

> dadiOH

> ____________________________

>

> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...

> ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from

> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.

> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

>

>

>

>

[Guest attilathehun1]

RE: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

Well, the first post by Don was correct, the power button assembly was not

working properly.

next on the list, the 10 dollar power supply was a used power supply that

works on a Gateway. The one with the fan slapped right on the side of the

power supply.

Next, I've been fixing PCs for years. I've not had to encounter the power

button assembly yet. I've fixed about 50 PCs give or take a couple. That's a

round number. Maybe more I'd say.

Next, I'd never tell someone they had to take their PC to a PC tech. The

experiences I've had with them hasn't been nice. Unless you have a friend or

have brought your PC to a tech that you've gone to before and been satified,

then I'd say don't go.

Next, don't be rude to people and belittle them. Telling them they are

non-bites when it comes to fixing PCs. I'll admit I need to learn more. I'll

bet you do too.

Next, one more shot and I'm done with the Gateway with the Pentium III CPU.

I have the DIY with 1GB of DDR 400 RAM and a new mobo/ CPU combo I bought

from newegg.com.

Alrighty, that's it for now.

Thanks, attilathehun1

--

attilathehun1

 

 

"attilathehun1" wrote:

> I'd like to know how to start up my PC without the front panel power button

> assembly because my PC won't start or fire up. Nothing happens when I hit the

> power button. The power supply works, so I figure it might be the power

> button assembly that's the problem. I'm using a process of elimination to do

> this and the power button assembly is next on the process of elimination.

> Thanks, attilathehun1

> --

> attilathehun1

[Guest MEB]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

I'll start with an addendum, other inline:

 

AT power switches generally had three wire connectors [old style cases,

four holes in the connector]], two were for power, the other, separated by a

blank/unfilled hole, was the light/LED power indicator.

 

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message

news:647F92FB-3E68-4AAD-80AA-11F19131D487@microsoft.com...

| Ok, finally I got a response in detail that I can use. I didn't read both

of

| your last messages, Gary and Meb, but I can see that it's something I'm

going

| to print out.

| Ok, one more thing, I finally figured out somewhat what to do with the

| small screwdriver. I put it between the prongs where the power button

| assmebly joins the mobo. I took out the power connector and inserted the

| screw driver onto the prongs and nothing happened. I then noticed the

power

| cord wasn't plugged in. When I plugged in the power cord the PC started up

| automatically. Is that because I jumped it before the power cord was in?

I'd

| think if the power cord wasn't in and you tried to jump a PC nothing would

| happen. Sometimes my one PC starts as soon as you plug in the power cord.

| And as far as the multi-meter readings, I will take your guys advice and

| take a reading.

 

As we were not there to see what occurred or what you did or did not do,

why it started is unknown for sure. Perhaps the switch was stuck

in/on/pushed.

 

Good take your time, the multi-meter [get a digital] is an invaluable tool

for computer testing and repairs.

 

| Alright, I'm going to give this a shot. I tried to start up the PC with

and

| without the power button assembly and had no luck. I just went and bought

a

| power button assembly, no, I had my power button assembly fixed for no

| charge. The PC tech at PC Liquidators bent it up a bit, which is kinda

| impossible since it's plastic, but yes it's bent. he inserted a new

clicker.

| The old clicker that clicks when you push the power button on the front

panel

| wasn't working, so he took the old one out and puttied in a new clicker.

 

That is like asking for future failure. The switch part [not the button but

what actually performs the work] is cheap. You should replace the switch

with a new one. Radio Shack or other electronic parts supply stores will

have one which you could use or which could be modified.to work. UNLESS

that's actually what the TECH did, and glued/puttied {what country are you

in?} the button assembly back together. Again, we have no idea what work was

actually performed.

 

 

| I felt obligated to buy something from the store, since he didn't charge

me

| for the fix on the power assembly, and I bought a DVI to VGA or VGA to DVI

| connector for 10 bucks. Made for Windows not Macs.

| Alrighty, thanks for the detail infomation. It is greatly appreciated.

| Thanks, attilathehun1

| --

| attilathehun1

 

Good luck.

 

|

|

| "MEB" wrote:

|

| > Straight up answer, read it twice if necessary.

| >

| > The CASE has/should have a power supply button which has *two

leads/wires*

| > running to the ATX style motherboard [AT style testing is slightly

| > different, these power buttons are NOT momentary but provide constant

| > connection].

| >

| > IF ATX SYLE:

| > These two leads connect to two pins on the motherboard. WHERE these two

| > pins connect IS the testing position where you EITHER use the paper clip

| > WITHOUT uninstalling the connector, push the paperclip into the two

holes IN

| > the connector next two each of the two wires MOMENTARILY, OR where you

place

| > the multi-meter leads to test for voltage BEFORE OR AFTER removing the

| > connector. IF the computer boots you MAY have a bad switch OR a bad

| > connection.

| > ALSO using the multi-meter and AFTER removing the two wire connector,

place

| > the leads from the multi-meter into the connector from the power switch

and

| > test for connection using the *continuity* testing aspect of the meter

OR

| > using one of the *KOHM* settings AND *while pressing the button and

| > releasing*. IF you get a reading OTHER THAN 0 [zero] or the default

| > unconnected display, the button is good OR if the continuity test

| > BEEPS/alarms or flashes a light [depends on the meter] you have a good

| > button {usually}.

| >

| > IF the button tests okay, and the temporary connection [paper clip or

| > {shudder} screwdriver} DID NOT turn on the computer you either have a

bad

| > motherboard [or one of its components] OR a bad power supply.

| >

| > FOR THE SCREWDRIVER APPROACH: momentarily touch the two exposed pins on

the

| > motherboard from where you disconnected the power switch leads. BE

CAREFULL,

| > this is not a recommended procedure as a slip MIGHT contact other parts

of

| > the board electronics causing a DIRECT SHORT or other damage.

| >

| > IF AT STYLE:

| > IF it is an AT style board, the preferred method is to create a

| > shunt/jumper, a plain wire WITHOUT exposed wires, which you push onto

the

| > pins for completed constant connection. This is placed WITH THE POWER

| > COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED. IF this works, then replace the shunt/jumper

with a

| > new switch.

| >

| > You stated, I think, that you replaced the board, did you replace the

| > GROUNDING screw in the right hole and connection on the case and

| > motherboard?

| >

| > --

| > MEB http://peoplescounsel.orgfree.com

| > --

| > _________

| >

| > "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in

message

| > news:AB38BEB6-9100-4E3E-BC5A-96FF622FF63B@microsoft.com...

| > | Look, all I wanted to do was get a simple answer to where I touch the

| > screw

| > | driver. I know my motherboard. There is no way I can use a screw

driver

| > from

| > | the answers you have given. You haven't given me a right on answer,

| > straight,

| > | for example, touch the screw driver from the battery to the point

where

| > the

| > | start up button assembly plugs into the motherboard. Or take a paper

clip

| > and

| > | stick it into the connector where the P1 power supply connector goes

in.

| > | Nothing like that has been told to me. All these answers are vague.

| > Someone

| > | give a staight up answer.

| > | And yes I did go out and buy a power supply for 10 bucks, a used one

that

| > | works on a Gateway. Also, I do have a multi-meter that I use to test

| > | batteries. No one has told me to take the multi-meter and touch it to

a

| > | certain spot on the power supply and take a reading. Or no one has

said to

| > me

| > | to take the multi-meter and take a reading from the connector on the

| > | motherboard while the P1 is plugged in or whatever. All these answers

are

| > in

| > | the grey area.

| > | Anyone would get upset with these answers after someone saying you

don't

| > | know your elbow from you know what and then saying to take your PC to

a PC

| > | tech.

| > | I just want some definite answers. Just the way I would answer

someone

| > who

| > | asked a question if I knew the answer.

| > | Thanks,

| > attilathehun1

| > | --

| > | attilathehun1

| > |

| > |

| > | "Gary S. Terhune" wrote:

| > |

| > | > Boo-hoo-hoo. Here's a Kleenex. Now, blow. Good boy!

| > | >

| > | > Have you figured out if the power button works or not? Or are you

too

| > cheap

| > | > to buy a multi-tester?

| > | >

| > | > --

| > | > Gary S. Terhune

| > | > MS-MVP Shell/User

| > | > http://www.grystmill.com

| > | >

| > | > "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in

| > message

| > | > news:E2FA0310-D0A4-48ED-960C-6500BB8C4021@microsoft.com...

| > | > > Ok, I did and I know from trial and error. That's exactly how the

last

| > PC

| > | > > tech did it when I brought it into him. In fact, he lied. I

brought

| > the PC

| > | > > into him and told him I didn't want to pay the 25 dollars and just

to

| > buy

| > | > > a

| > | > > power supply that fits the machine or something to that nature. He

| > told me

| > | > > don't worry, I'll do it just so we get it right and there will be

no

| > | > > problems.

| > | > > Well I said ok, no probs go ahead then. When I saw the bill and

said

| > wtf

| > | > > is

| > | > > this 25 bucks for? OH, that for me working on it. I said wtf I

| > thought

| > | > > you

| > | > > said you'd do it and just so it would be done right. The mother...

| > ripped

| > | > > me

| > | > > off. So, wtf am I to say in that situation. I paid him and told

him

| > this

| > | > > would be the last time I brought my PC into this PC store.

| > | > > Getting back to the problem, which had been made into a mountain

from

| > a

| > | > > molehill, I did test it and yes the motherboard probably got

damaged

| > or

| > | > > shorted out or ESD might have ruined it . I stuck the paperclip

into

| > the

| > | > > two

| > | > > pin holes and nothing happened. So, I assume that's the problem.

| > | > > See I've never had to do this before and I figured a little

advice,

| > plain

| > | > > and simple, would be enough information. I guess not.

Anotherwords,

| > you

| > | > > (pl)

| > | > > don't no how to do it. You don't no wtf you are talking about. See

| > I've

| > | > > encountered your kind. Read upwards.

| > | > > Ok, thanks for nothing.

| > | > > attilathehun1

| > | > >

| > | > > See there are problems out there and lies from PC techs. I mean is

it

| > that

| > | > > bad? I just wanted a confirmation, and if it's going to be that

bad,

| > then

| > | > > forget it.

| > | > >

| > | > > --

| > | > > attilathehun1

| > | > >

| > | > >

| > | > > "attilathehun1" wrote:

| > | > >

| > | > >> I'd like to know how to start up my PC without the front panel

power

| > | > >> button

| > | > >> assembly because my PC won't start or fire up. Nothing happens

when I

| > hit

| > | > >> the

| > | > >> power button. The power supply works, so I figure it might be the

| > power

| > | > >> button assembly that's the problem. I'm using a process of

| > elimination to

| > | > >> do

| > | > >> this and the power button assembly is next on the process of

| > elimination.

| > | > >> Thanks,

attilathehun1

| > | > >> --

| > | > >> attilathehun1

 

--

MEB http://peoplescounsel.orgfree.com

--

_________

[Guest Brian A.]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

"w_tom" <w_tom1@usa.net> wrote in message

news:3af84e9a-e2eb-4928-ad8b-cdcf056982e0@b5g2000pri.googlegroups.com...

> On May 10, 1:18 am, "Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote:

>> Sure, anyone can assemble a PC, yet not everyone can assemble one to the

>> specs

>> that it will operate properly. How electricity works has nothing to do with

>> how

>> one builds a PC.

>

> Which is why the OP is discussing a power supply for $25 or, even

> worse, $10. He is not alone. Many computers assemblers - including A

> + Certified Techs - need not learn how electricity works. Anybody can

> assemble a computer that will boot - and is still defective. Without

> electrical knowledge, they buy a power supply only on dollars and

> watts.

 

Hogwash, low cost does not mean defective and even though a user/builder may

purchase a 250 - 350 watt ps, that's more than suffucient for a great majority

of users w/power to spare.

>

> Gary Terhune has asked the OP to perform some simplest and most

> information tests. The OP instead does only what he understands. OP

> repeatedly ignores the posts that would created definitive answers.

> Why? He somehow knows which posts provide a useful answer but does

> not even have basic electrical knowledge. IOW the best (most useful)

> posts get ignored by the OP due to insufficient electrical knowledge.

>

> What provides the most useful results? Tests that result in

> numbers.

>

> What provides that continuity tester, reports in seconds where the

> problem is, and provides numbers so that others can post help? A 3.5

> digit multimeter. Why would it answer all the OP's questions? That

> answer is only obvious with basic electrical knowledge.

 

A continuity test does not provide numbers, it only checks that a current can

go from point A to point B. It's not a definitive test since any stranded wire

can have all but one strand broken and it will still show continuity. The same

goes for a switch if a conductor is broken yet can still make an sort of

contact. A multimeter is the way to go.

>

> Any child can build a computer that boots. Even computers with

> defective power supplies will still boot. Analysis of failure and

> solving problems before that happens both require basic electrical

> knowledge - ie the numbers.

 

As I stated before, one doesn't need to have electrical knowledge to

assemble/build a PC. I do agree that some is needed to tshoot if the problem

appears to be electrical.

 

 

--

 

 

Brian A. Sesko { MS MVP_Windows Desktop User Experience }

Conflicts start where information lacks.

http://basconotw.mvps.org/

 

Suggested posting do's/don'ts: http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm

How to ask a question: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555375

[Guest Gary S. Terhune]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

I'd say some basic electrical knowledge should be onboard before one even

considers opening the case, but maybe I'm just jumpy after all this talk of

screwdrivers and paperclips being stuck into live circuits by an obviously

incompetent. Yes, he's apparently very mentally ill, but that doesn't change

the fact that he's incompetent and in that sense resembles the vast majority

of computer users -- most of whom are fortunately smart enough to leave the

box closed.

 

--

Gary S. Terhune

MS-MVP Shell/User

http://www.grystmill.com

 

"Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote in message

news:ezNw3d0sIHA.4848@TK2MSFTNGP05.phx.gbl...

> "w_tom" <w_tom1@usa.net> wrote in message

> news:3af84e9a-e2eb-4928-ad8b-cdcf056982e0@b5g2000pri.googlegroups.com...

>> On May 10, 1:18 am, "Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote:

>>> Sure, anyone can assemble a PC, yet not everyone can assemble one to

>>> the specs

>>> that it will operate properly. How electricity works has nothing to do

>>> with how

>>> one builds a PC.

>>

>> Which is why the OP is discussing a power supply for $25 or, even

>> worse, $10. He is not alone. Many computers assemblers - including A

>> + Certified Techs - need not learn how electricity works. Anybody can

>> assemble a computer that will boot - and is still defective. Without

>> electrical knowledge, they buy a power supply only on dollars and

>> watts.

>

> Hogwash, low cost does not mean defective and even though a user/builder

> may purchase a 250 - 350 watt ps, that's more than suffucient for a great

> majority of users w/power to spare.

>

>>

>> Gary Terhune has asked the OP to perform some simplest and most

>> information tests. The OP instead does only what he understands. OP

>> repeatedly ignores the posts that would created definitive answers.

>> Why? He somehow knows which posts provide a useful answer but does

>> not even have basic electrical knowledge. IOW the best (most useful)

>> posts get ignored by the OP due to insufficient electrical knowledge.

>>

>> What provides the most useful results? Tests that result in

>> numbers.

>>

>> What provides that continuity tester, reports in seconds where the

>> problem is, and provides numbers so that others can post help? A 3.5

>> digit multimeter. Why would it answer all the OP's questions? That

>> answer is only obvious with basic electrical knowledge.

>

> A continuity test does not provide numbers, it only checks that a current

> can go from point A to point B. It's not a definitive test since any

> stranded wire can have all but one strand broken and it will still show

> continuity. The same goes for a switch if a conductor is broken yet can

> still make an sort of contact. A multimeter is the way to go.

>

>>

>> Any child can build a computer that boots. Even computers with

>> defective power supplies will still boot. Analysis of failure and

>> solving problems before that happens both require basic electrical

>> knowledge - ie the numbers.

>

> As I stated before, one doesn't need to have electrical knowledge to

> assemble/build a PC. I do agree that some is needed to tshoot if the

> problem appears to be electrical.

>

>

> --

>

>

> Brian A. Sesko { MS MVP_Windows Desktop User Experience }

> Conflicts start where information lacks.

> http://basconotw.mvps.org/

>

> Suggested posting do's/don'ts: http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm

> How to ask a question: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555375

>

>

[Guest Brian A.]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

"Gary S. Terhune" <none> wrote in message

news:eMzjx54sIHA.5096@TK2MSFTNGP02.phx.gbl...

> I'd say some basic electrical knowledge should be onboard before one even

> considers opening the case, but maybe I'm just jumpy after all this talk of

> screwdrivers and paperclips being stuck into live circuits by an obviously

> incompetent. Yes, he's apparently very mentally ill, but that doesn't change

> the fact that he's incompetent and in that sense resembles the vast majority

> of computer users -- most of whom are fortunately smart enough to leave the

> box closed.

>

> --

> Gary S. Terhune

> MS-MVP Shell/User

> http://www.grystmill.com

 

I don't disagree when it comes to repairs. Although it could be a plus, I do

not agree it's necessary when it comes to assembling/building.

 

 

--

 

 

Brian A. Sesko { MS MVP_Windows Desktop User Experience }

Conflicts start where information lacks.

http://basconotw.mvps.org/

 

Suggested posting do's/don'ts: http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm

How to ask a question: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555375

[Guest w_tom]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

On May 11, 5:12 am, "Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote:

> Hogwash, low cost does not mean defective and even though a user/builder may

> purchase a 250 - 350 watt ps, that's more than suffucient for a great majority

> of users w/power to spare.

 

Brian A just proved my point. A 250 or 350 watt ps could be more

than enough. But the 250 watt supply marketed to A+ Certified techs

(certified without knowing how electricity works) may actually be only

175 watts. They did not lie. That 250 watt label was accurate. A

computer assembler without basic electrical knowledge would not

understand.

 

Why do so many computer assemblers then recommend 500 and 600 watt

supplies? Because the 350 watt supply was only providing 245 watts.

The computer assembler never learned why it failed. He just hypes,

"More Watts!" - which is the Tim Allen joke about people who know

without first learning. Bean counters do the same thing by throwing

money at problems rather than first learning the problem. Another

example of throwing money at problems is the UPS solution four

paragraphs down.

 

Second, computer may need 350 watts total. But the supply may be

undersized on one voltage. Supply works fine on one computer but

fails on another also otherwise good computer. Again, a power supply

boot another computer but not another. The informed computer designer

does not select a supply on watts. He selects on amperes for each

voltage.

 

Already I have probably said too much. Basic electrical knowledge

makes the "I know I am an expert" computer assembler's eyes to glaze

over. Any child can select a power supply from the retail shelf

without even looking at watts. The supply will probably boot a

computer. Therefore the child will also declare the computer fully

functional and himself a computer expert. Computer assemblers

typically have that much knowledge.

 

Third, Brian knows a $10 supply can output enough watts. How to

sell a fully functional power supply for only $25 at an even higher

profit margin? Remove essential functions from the $60 supply. No

acceptable supply can harm motherboard, disk drives, CPU, etc. But

that $10 supply is missing those required functions. Why include them

when the computer assembler does not even know of those functions.

Power supply vendors have found a lucrative market. Dump stripped

down power supplies for a higher profit margin to electrically naive

computer assemblers. Then when missing functions result in computer

component damage, the computer assembler blames the power company, old

household wiring, a missing UPS, heat, or ... anything but the

computer assembler without basic electrical knowledge.

 

Fourth, any computer must work just fine even when incandescent

bulbs are only at 40% intensity. When voltage drops that low,

functions inside a properly designed computer make low voltage

irrelevant. But a naive computer assembler bought a $25 supply, then

assumes a $100 UPS is required. Throw money at a problem rather than

learn the problem. $100 more because he saved $35 on a supply? AC

power was to blamed due to technical ignorance – a $25 power supply.

He is an expert. He fixed it with a UPS rather than learn the real

problem. Just another example of self proclaimed computer experts who

solve problems by spending more dollar and watts.

 

Four examples when an A+ Certified Computer Tech need not learn how

electricity works. Yes, that naivity is common in computer repair

shops when shotgunning somehow replaces knowledge.

[Guest Gary S. Terhune]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

You got a point there.

 

--

Gary S. Terhune

MS-MVP Shell/User

http://www.grystmill.com

 

"Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote in message

news:OknHQz5sIHA.1872@TK2MSFTNGP04.phx.gbl...

> "Gary S. Terhune" <none> wrote in message

> news:eMzjx54sIHA.5096@TK2MSFTNGP02.phx.gbl...

>> I'd say some basic electrical knowledge should be onboard before one even

>> considers opening the case, but maybe I'm just jumpy after all this talk

>> of screwdrivers and paperclips being stuck into live circuits by an

>> obviously incompetent. Yes, he's apparently very mentally ill, but that

>> doesn't change the fact that he's incompetent and in that sense resembles

>> the vast majority of computer users -- most of whom are fortunately smart

>> enough to leave the box closed.

>>

>> --

>> Gary S. Terhune

>> MS-MVP Shell/User

>> http://www.grystmill.com

>

> I don't disagree when it comes to repairs. Although it could be a plus,

> I do not agree it's necessary when it comes to assembling/building.

>

>

> --

>

>

> Brian A. Sesko { MS MVP_Windows Desktop User Experience }

> Conflicts start where information lacks.

> http://basconotw.mvps.org/

>

> Suggested posting do's/don'ts: http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm

> How to ask a question: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555375

>

>

[Guest Buffalo]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

attilathehun1 wrote:

> Look, all I wanted to do was get a simple answer to where I touch the

> screw driver. I know my motherboard. There is no way I can use a

> screw driver from the answers you have given. You haven't given me a

> right on answer, straight, for example, touch the screw driver from

> the battery to the point where the start up button assembly plugs

> into the motherboard. Or take a paper clip and stick it into the

> connector where the P1 power supply connector goes in. Nothing like

> that has been told to me. All these answers are vague. Someone give a

> staight up answer. And yes I did go out and buy a power supply for

> 10 bucks, a used one that works on a Gateway. Also, I do have a

> multi-meter that I use to test batteries. No one has told me to take

> the multi-meter and touch it to a certain spot on the power supply

> and take a reading. Or no one has said to me to take the multi-meter

> and take a reading from the connector on the motherboard while the P1

> is plugged in or whatever. All these answers are in the grey area.

> Anyone would get upset with these answers after someone saying you

> don't know your elbow from you know what and then saying to take your

> PC to a PC tech.

> I just want some definite answers. Just the way I would answer

> someone who asked a question if I knew the answer.

> Thanks,

> attilathehun1

 

The Start button is just a spring loaded switch that momentary connects the

two wires tohether going to it. (ie: connects the two wires together as long

as the button is held in and then disconnects them when the button is

released).

If you disconnect the wires from the Start button (switch) and momentarily

short them together (usually a paper clip will suffice.) the computer should

start if the Power On switch is faulty and everything else is OK.

 

To test the Start button (switch) itself, you would need to disconnect the

wires from it (same ones as above), put your multimeter on 'continuity' and

put its leads on the Start button connectors themselves. Now, when you push

the button in, the meter should read a direct short (needle will swing or

readout will be 0 or the buzzer on the meter will sound).

Hope this helps.

 

Sounding like a smart-ass doesn't help either, even if you are getting

frustrated.

 

Buffalo

[Guest Buffalo]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

Buffalo wrote:

>

> The Start button is just a spring loaded switch that momentary

> connects the two wires tohether going to it. (ie: connects the two

> wires together as long as the button is held in and then disconnects

> them when the button is released).

> If you disconnect the wires from the Start button (switch) and

> momentarily short them together (usually a paper clip will suffice.)

> the computer should start if the Power On switch is faulty and

> everything else is OK.

 

I meant to say Start button and not Power On switch.

>

> To test the Start button (switch) itself, you would need to

> disconnect the wires from it (same ones as above), put your

> multimeter on 'continuity' and put its leads on the Start button

> connectors themselves. Now, when you push the button in, the meter

> should read a direct short (needle will swing or readout will be 0 or

> the buzzer on the meter will sound).

> Hope this helps.

>

> Sounding like a smart-ass doesn't help either, even if you are getting

> frustrated.

>

> Buffalo

[Guest Brian A.]

Re: Starting your PC without the front panel power button

 

"w_tom" <w_tom1@usa.net> wrote in message

news:bd4df607-c68a-4fe0-a79a-8556d92a146c@y22g2000prd.googlegroups.com...

On May 11, 5:12 am, "Brian A." <gonefish'n@afarawaylake> wrote:

> Hogwash, low cost does not mean defective and even though a user/builder may

> purchase a 250 - 350 watt ps, that's more than suffucient for a great majority

> of users w/power to spare.

 

Brian A just proved my point.

 

Hardly.

 

 

--

 

 

Brian A. Sesko { MS MVP_Windows Desktop User Experience }

Conflicts start where information lacks.

http://basconotw.mvps.org/

 

Suggested posting do's/don'ts: http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm

How to ask a question: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555375