Plastic Nev

Ah, I see what you really wanted now, keeping F11 pressed actually makes it cycle back and for between the two as I found, so it should just be one click of the F11 key to change, however like anything else not used very often, the F11 key may have become sticky or a poor contact. Anyway, you have it sorted now and all the best to you for the new year. Nev.

Hi, this transparent top of the Explorer isn't actually a fault of Internet explorer itself, it is actually adjusted in the main settings of all windows. Close explorer or reduce it down, or just minimise so you have a blank area on the desktop, then right click on it, a menu should appear, click on "Personalise", when that window opens right down at the bottom you should see a square called "Window Colour", click that, you should then see a choice of window frame colours, a tick box for "Enable transparency" and also a slider control for "Colour intensity" slide that over to the right and the transparency should become a more solid colour, or remove the tick in the box to make it fully coloured. At the bottom of that window click on "Save changes" before exiting. Nev.

Hi, Being an older head set, no doubt originally made for XP, I am wondering if it is just not fully compatible with Windows 7. However one last thing to try as windows own drivers may be conflicting, Firstly make sure the headset is disconnected, then click start and type in the search bar, "Device Manager", then click on Device manager at the top. When the manager window opens, look for "Sound,video,and games controllers" Click the small arrow on the left, hopefully you should see your headset so double click on that, in the next window click the drivers tab then the uninstall button. May be best to reboot the computer to make sure the drivers are removed, and then go back to that drivers window to make sure it isn't there in any form. Also a check via the Control Panel, and check in Programs and Features to see if it is also there, if so uninstall it there too. Next is to reinstall the drivers you downloaded, and when it prompts you, connect the headset. Let us know if that helps. Any one else is welcome if they have more idea's. Nev.

Hi, a few questions first, The computer it used to work OK on, what was the operating system on it, and the computer you are now trying to get to work with, what is the operating system on that? Did you look for and make sure the Listen tick box has no tick in it? If you can answer those first, I will possiblt know better what to look at next. Nev.

Hi, In order to be able to install the software that will make the clone, you will need a lot more space than what you have left, is there any way you can transfer some data to DVD disks or similar storage, then delete it to make room? Nev.

Hi, are you hearing feed back coming from your main speakers? is that what you mean by the screech and static noises? If so, in the microphone properties box, click the "Listen" tab, if there is a tick in the box for "Listen to this device" try removing the tick. That disconnects it from the speakers and therefore removes feed back. the microphone and headset should still work with other programs, Skype as an example. Nev.

Hi have you seen and checked out what KenB wrote in the above post? Nev.

To avoid confusion I will post again rather than edit as above. Do you have any disks for the computer? recovery, or better the full XP disk? Nev.

Hi, try the suggestion from RandyL first and see if that will get you the BIOS page to open, if so let us know. Edit to add, now having seen you have cleared those passwords, try at least just the admin password back in again and see if that will work. This post below may not now be relevant. If on the other hand that doesn't work, you need to try resetting the BIOS, so are you OK at opening the desktop box? If so, turn off the power at the mains socket, or remove the plug if no switch, the cover will be held on with two or three screws at the back, removing them will allow the lid to slide off backwards, (Sometimes a little stiff to move at first) On the main mother board you should find a coin sized battery, possibly with the numbers CR2035 stamped on it and held in with a clip, carefully spring the clip and remove the battery and leave it out for five minutes, then replace the battery, make sure it goes back the same way up. That will have reset the entire BIOS back to the factory default settings. See if you can then use the keyboard. Also those batteries do not last for ever and may require replacement, they are pretty cheap and can be found in any retail outlet that has a large range of batteries. For example I get the same battery for a small LED torch from the local supermarket. So if removing and replacement of the original does nothing try a new replacement instead. Nev.

Hi Aldaz, when you installed the headset on your old computer did it come with a drivers disk? If so have you used that disk on the new computer? It looks at the moment as though Windows has set up its own generic drivers only, whereas the Tritton drivers will give more options. If you don't have the disk, you should be able to download the appropriate driver from here :- http://support.madcatz.com/Knowledgebase/Article/View/286/7/where-can-i-find-drivers-for-my-tritton-products Let us know how you get on, Nev.

Just to add to the good advice so far, here is a recommendation, depending upon which type of drive is installed at the moment, IDE or SATA, obtain an enclosure for that type, and also obtain a new larger hard drive of the same type.. Using cloning software we can recommend as myself and Ken did some exhaustive tests on it, firstly install the new hard drive temporarily into the enclosure, then connect it to the laptop. Using the cloning software make a complete clone of the existing drive in the laptop on to the new drive in the enclosure. Then take the new drive out of the enclosure, also take the old drive out of the laptop, and install the new drive into the laptop that now has the clone on it. Your laptop should be good to go from then on. If willing to go down this route we can give greater details as to how to set up the clone, the software and the hard drives. Nev.

If one fuse is for the upstairs sockets and the other for downstairs, then yes. The only way to be sure is to take one out and find out which sockets have gone dead, same for the other. Nev.

Indeed as Ken suggests, if there are two ring main circuits, the signal upstairs may not be quite as strong as if it was one ring main throughout the house, though it may still work. The signal has to go through to the main fuse or circuit breaker box to then go out to the other ring main being the reason for a weaker signal. However I do remember seeing someone not having too much problem with that though. Nev.

Hi Jez, My only other thought at the moment is to get into safe mode, from first power up, keep tapping the F8 key, hopefully you should get the Advanced start up options page, you need to choose "Safemode with Networking" if it will do so. Let us know if it can get that far please. Nev.

Hi, do you actually know that password? We cannot help in matters regarding that actual password. However, if the system is asking for that password before booting up, that is happening within the BIOS before Windows has started and therefore USB ports will likely not yet be active. The only way round that is to use a keyboard and mouse with the PS2 type plugs and not USB. PS2 are the round violet, or green ports, violet is the keyboard, and green is mouse. If you do not know that system password, I am sorry but we cannot help with circumventing that, and please look at the forum rules for clarification as to why we cannot do so. Rule 5 here :- http://extremetechsupport.com/threads/11463-New-to-Free-PC-Help-Forum-Rules#.Urw6mbSyM4c Nev.

I am surprised that the Dell disks installs didn't eventually come back with the usual warning from Microsoft the "This copy of Windows is not genuine" message, especially after a few Windows updates. However, it would still be best to get in touch with Dell about it. Good to know they will run W7 though and I recommend you install 64 bit versions as you will then be able to upgrade the RAM, at least as far as the motherboard will allow. Nev.

Hi joddle, I can only suggest getting in touch with Dell about that. However unless your disk is a mutiple license disk, I doubt it can be used on other computerrs without having activation trouble. The only other advice I can offer is to check if the current XP machines can run W7. You can do this from the Microsoft site here :- http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/downloads/upgrade-advisor Nev

Wishing a merry Christmas 2013 and all the best for the New Year 2014 to all our members and staff. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/plasticpig/Christmascard_zps40baa403.jpg Also a funny Christmas card I received from a friend. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/plasticpig/Frank_zps86958dc8.jpg Nev.

Hi again Craig, can you tell us please firstly can you get into the full BIOS system? and secondly what does it say about the type of BIOS system it is, usually at the top or very bottom of the first page. It may be of help for Ken when he comes back on line. Nev.

Hi, for the MIDI keyboard, did you get a drivers disk with it? If so have you tried re-installing from the disk? now wondering if there may be some corruption within Windows, for most of those other devices you mention, Windows should have been able to load its own generic drivers. Till Ken gets back, it won't hurt to try a system file check. Click start, then in the search box type, cmd.exe you should then see cmd.exe appear at the top, do not ordinary left click on it, you must first right click, then in the menu choose "Run as administrator" A black window appears with the cursor flashing, just type, sfc /scannow (Note the space between sfc and the / ) Then press the enter key, it will then scan the system files and attempt to repair any damaged files. It may report there are files it cannot repair, try at least another three runs as sometimes it can repair them the second or third time. If damaged files are reported, and will not repair them please let us know. Nev.

When you say it won't boot from a windows disk, did you first check or change the boot order to the disk drive as first? You will need to enter the BIOS to find the boot order by pressing F2 at start up as soon as the Dell logo appears, or continuous tapping of the F2 key again from first start up. To be able to boot from a USB source such as a bootable volume on a pen drive, you need to check if USB is an option and to change the boot order to USB, also in BIOS. Nev.

At last some authorities are hitting Google for their privacy policies and lack of regard for privacy here :- http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-25461353 Nev.

Hi, first thanks GRANDAD, I had a quick look at the Freemake, it is mainly intended as a video converter, though will do very basic editing as in cut and join but with little or no extra's, it may do all you need. However if wanting to add effects, edit also the sound track, the best basic and free editor is Windows own Movie Maker, being on Windows 8 the latest from Microsoft is designed to work with it. Have a look here :- http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-live/movie-maker#t1=overview There are many different and easy to follow tutorials on Youtube to get the best out of Windows Movie maker, though it isn't too difficult to get at least the basics sorted out. I have experimented in the past with various of the free video editors and Windows Movie maker is better than most, the only way to get better is to pay for it. I did recently have a look at a full professional standard "Lightworks" which is fairly cheap, but only a twelve month license, however a brilliant editor once learned how to use it if willing to spend a little money. Depends on how much editing you may need to do in the future of course, if this is a one off, then stick with free. Nev.

AHHRG, I wish I had known you had a combi, you could have converted to AVI, and it may have worked then. At least we got there in the end and I also learned a little more. Nev.

Hi, Paul beat me to it as I would have suggested ImgBurn as the next, though I wasn't looking forward to the explanation as I didn't know about the instruction page that Paul linked to, so thanks to PaulC for that. We all learn something new don't we. It is all a bit of new territory for me too as I normally send video up to youtube if I wish others to view it, I only ever burned VCD's in the past as my friends DVD player would handle them. The final thing is check that at least one of the disks burned with ImgBurn does actually play in a DVD player, if it does you got the settings right and all should be fine. And finally thanks must go to PaulC for jumping in at the right moment. Nev.