snow

Hi and welcome to the forum, The next time your laptop does this, could you please do the following: Open the command prompt by holding down the windows key, and pressing 'R'. Into the run box that appears, type cmd and press enter. Type ipconfig /all into the black command prompt window, and then press enter. The details for your computer's network adapters will come up. Copy all of this output by right-clicking on the window, and choosing 'Select all', and then paste it into your reply.

Tell them you know what the problem is, and ask them directly to check and reset your line. If they ask all the usual troublshooting stuff tell them you've done it already, which I'm guessing you probobly have. It's definately anoying being limited with your choice of ISP. You could try here: Broadband Postcode Checker - Availability check and broadband comparison To see if there are others on your exchange (sorry if you've already tried that). Be broadband is my favorite ISP in the UK right now (also known as O2) so good choice there for your flat.

That latency of 140ms seems high. I've been thinking, and the explination for the timeouts could be that your router drops all incoming ICMP messages, would would be unnecissarily strict, but some devices do it. I think the livebox itself is fine, and the problem is at your ISP's end. Personally I don't like orange at all, especially their customer service, so I can understand why you don't want to call them. I think in this case it might be needed though; be persistant, and tell them that your connection is too slow to use and that you need to have it fixed. If you can, consider changing to another ISP. I don't think you will need to replace the router, so don't worry about that.

I'm sorry to say this, but it looks like a classic case of hardware failure. My own experiences with Acer monitors have not been good, and I'd reccomend against buying another from them. It looks like the actual panel is OK, so I'd guess the problem lies with the controller board inside the screen. I'm assuming it is no longer in warranty; if so then your options are pretty limited. Repairing flascreens is basically impossible without the manufacturer. If there is a resolution or refresh rate that doesn't have the issue, then use that for now. I think that replacing the screen would be the best option though.

No problem, I'm very glad to see that your new build went well, and that Jelly Bean and Tootech's expert advice saw you through :) That's what i needed to know thanks. The conenction stats from the modem look OK, and your Signal to noise ratio is actually pretty good. What's werid is all of these time outs between you and your destination. Normally there should be a few to account for firewalls, but not every single one. Could you try disconnecting everything but a single computer with an ethernet cable, and running the trace again?

Hey Shrimply, If you have a look at the web interface of your live box, specifically at the system information section, there should be a part for 'attentuation' and incoming/outgoing speeds, could you post what those are please. What the router syncs at, and what you actually recive, can be very different things unfortunately. To get a rough idea of what your connection is like now, could you do the following: Open the command prompt by holding down the windows key, and pressing 'R'. Into the run box that appears, type cmd and press enter. Into the command prompt window, type tracert 74.125.45.100 Copy all of this output by right-clicking on the window, and choosing 'Select all', and then paste it into your reply.

Probably the closest thing you are referring to is remote desktop: Turn on Remote Desktop in Windows 7 or Vista :: the How-To Geek However I'm not sure if this will work for gaming, as the latency time between displaying the image and your actions might be too much to make it practial. Remote desktop will work great for normal programs that don't require split-second reaction times. Slower games like RTS titles may also work OK, but again I'm not sure how bad the delay will be.

Good post Tootech, will have to remember it for future reference :) Is this a pic of your motherboard: http://www.dosv.jp/mb_bb/img/2007/06/universalabit_01_01.jpg (Didn't want to post directly because of image size) If so then it has both onboard VGA and HDMI output. Try removing the graphics card, and connecting your monitor to the VGA plug (blue one). You might have been using a DVI connector on your graphics card, but it should have come with a VGA to DVI adapter that you can use with a VGA cable. Another thing is, do you have the PC speaker connected? Down at the bottom right of the image is the front panel connector. I think there is bit that says + SPKR - Make sure the PC speaker is connected to this the right way around, with the black cable going to the - side.

That's great Dan, glad to hear it's all sorted now :) You're very welcome for the help, though I'd like to thank you as well for coming back and adding what you did to solve the problem, hopefully it can be useful to others in future.

It's not sounding very good for the motherboard, I'm afraid. I think there is a chance that it could be a fried graphics card, but normally the motherboard should beep to tell you it has no display output. It's definately looking like you'll have to replace something. If you could get your hands on another graphics card then I'd try that first. If you have another computer, then try the graphics card in that to see if it works. If not, then replacing the motherboard would the next step. Other members might have some further insight.

Ok, it's starting to sound like a faulty motherboard to me. Are there any beeping sounds when you turn it on? That might give you an error code to look up. Do you still have the manual that came with the motherboard/computer?

You said the monitor doesn't come on? Do you have another graphics card you could try, or does the motherboard have a connector on it where you can plug your monitor in? What happens if you take the graphics card out, and try to start the machine? Does it stay on?

If the fans work Ok, and the power light comes on, then it could be either the motherboard or a component that is causing all of this. Have you tried disconnecting everything from the motherboard, except the power lead? Does your motherboard have onboard graphics, or do you have to use a graphics card? Take everything out of the motherboard except the graphics and the power cable, then try to boot the machine. You should be able to press either 'Delete' or 'F2' to enter the BIOS on startup. See if you can get there.

Try booting into safe mode in order to run malware bytes. Do this by re-starting the machine, then pressing F8 repetedly during startup until you get a menu with the option 'start in safe mode'. If it still won't run, then navigate to the malware bytes directory in Program files, and re-name the malware bytes .exe file, then try it again.

Hi Dan, welcome to Extreme Tech Support - Free PC Help. This sounds like a malware issue to me, so I've moved this to the malware forum so that we can better assist you. Here is our malware removal procedure. If you can browse the web and download files using Chrome, then you should be able to follow all of the steps: Your computer appears to be infected with Malware. Malware is software designed to infiltrate or damage a computer system without the owner's informed consent. It is a combination of the words malicious and software. The expression is a general term used by computer professionals to mean a variety of forms of hostile, intrusive, or annoying software or program code. It is in your best interest to note the following: Please disable your resident security applications (such as AVG, Spybot, WinPatrol, etc.) before performing the below procedure so that they do not interfere with the process. Perform all the steps in the order listed to avoid any conflicts. If unsure, please stop and voice your doubts. You might be required to go offline during the disinfection process. Therefore, it is recommended to print off the instructions below for ease of reference. If you stick to the above guidelines, all should go smoothly. ================================================ STEP 1 Download ATF-Cleaner by Atribune. Save the file to your Desktop. Double-click on the file to run the program. On the Main tab, check the Select All button. Next, click on the Firefox tab (if applicable) and check the Select All button. Note: If you would like to preserve your saved passwords in Firefox, then click No at the corresponding prompt. Now, click on the Opera tab (if applicable) and check the Select All button. Note: If you would like to preserve your saved passwords in Opera, then click No at the corresponding prompt. Press the Empty Selected button and click OK to acknowledge the corresponding prompt. Click on the Exit button to quit the program. ================================================ STEP 2 Please click here to download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware. Save the file to your Desktop. Double-click mbam-setup.exe and follow the prompts to install the program. At the end, make sure a check mark is placed next to: Update Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware Launch Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware [*]Click Finish. [*]The program will download and update itself if it finds the necessity to do so. Please allow this. [*]Once the program has loaded, select Perform full scan, then click Scan. Note: Depending on your computer specifications, the scan may take some time to complete. Please wait patiently and do not interrupt the process. [*]When the scan is complete, click OK, and then Show Results to view the results. [*]Make sure that every entry is selected, and click Remove Selected. [*]Restart your computer. ================================================ STEP 3 Please click here to download SUPERAntiSpyware (Free Version). Save the file to your Desktop. Double-click SUPERAntiSpyware.exe and follow the prompts to install the program. Open SUPERAntiSpyware. Under Configuration and Preferences, click the Preferences button. Click the Scanning Control tab. Under Scanner Options make sure the following fields checked: [*]Click the Close button to leave the control center screen. [*]On the main screen, under Scan for Harmful Software click Scan your computer. [*]On the left, make sure you check mark All the Fixed Drives. [*]On the right, under Complete Scan, choose Perform Complete Scan. [*]Click Next to start the scan. Please be patient while it scans your computer. [*]After the scan is complete, a Scan Summary box will appear with potentially harmful items that were detected. Click OK. [*]Make sure every entry has a check mark next to it and click Next. [*]A notification will appear that Quarantine and Removal is Complete. Click OK and then Finish to return to the main menu. [*]Restart your computer. ================================================ STEP 4 Please visit the ESET Online Scanner, using Internet Explorer to initiate the scan. Note: If you are running Windows Vista, then you will need Administrative privileges to complete the latter part of the procedure. To do so, right-click on the Internet Explorer icon in the Start Menu and select the Run As Administrator option in the shell context menu. Check mark the YES, I accept the Terms of Use box. Click the Start button. Click the Install button on the following screen. Click Start. This will will initialize and update the scanner engine. Check mark the box beside Remove found threats. Click the Scan button. This will start the scan. Please be patient while it is in progress. Restart your computer. ================================================ STEP 5 Click on Start > Programs > Accessories > System Tools and select System Restore. Choose the radio button marked Create a Restore Point on the first screen and click Next. Give the restore point a name then click Create. The new point will be stamped with the current date and time. Keep a note of this so you can find it easily should you need to use System Restore. Next, click on Start > Run, type Cleanmgr and click on OK. Click on the More Options tab. Click the Clean Up button in the System Restore section to remove all previous restore points except the most recent one. This will remove any infected files that have been backed up by Windows. The files in "System Restore" are protected to prevent any programs changing those files. This is the only foolproof way to ensure the deletion of those files. Note: Do not clear restore points on a regular basis as doing so will clear all previous restore points even those that you may need. System Restore is a useful tool to revert your computer back to a working condition if something goes wrong. Re-enable all your security applications and please return here and tell us how the computer seems to be operating. Close browsers before scanning Scan for tracking cookies Terminate memory threats before quarantining

Hi and welcome to Extreme Tech Support - Free PC Help, When did you first receive the Blue screen error? Was it after you first started using this wireless adapter?

Hi InFerect, When you press the power button on the computer, does the power light come on? Turn the PC off at the wall, remove the plug if you can. Then, closely watching one of the fans, turn it back on, or plug it back in. Does the fan twitch at all, even a little bit? When you look inside the case, does the motherboard look different anywhere, are there any leaking or damaged capacitors (big cylinders)? Are there any unusual smells, like burning?

Ok, go to Control panel > System> Hardware tab > device manager Look through the list for any Epson entries, and check if they have yellow triangles on them.

That's a beautiful screen; there's no doubt about it. I use a Samsung T260 and have loved it from the moment I got it. Of course it's totally up to you, and what you can afford. Don't rush it, and make your decisions in your own time. The Machine you have listed is a good compromise between cost and performance, without sacrificing quality. New computers always get more expensive than you'd realise by the time you add a windows license and a new monitor to the cost.

Don't rush it because some components are going out of stock; they wil always get more in. Making the right choice is more important. The 20" samsung is very nice with a higher dynamic contrast. If you're not sure; dynamic contrast is when the monitor dims it's backlight to make black ares of the screen look blacker. The 'real' contrast of the screen is in brackets after it, for the 20" it is 1000:1 real, 15000:1 dynamic. Dynamic defiantely makes a difference though, especially for things like movies and games. The 20" has a non-standard resolution of 1600x900. This means you get less pixels than the 22", and it could be harder to find support for it in games, but if you're not gaming then this won't really matter. If given the choice I would rather have the 22" because of the larger screen size and larger pixel count. There will be no noticable difference between DVI and VGA. It seems that Ebuyer have stopped selling the 12cm Xilence redwing fan since I last bought one, so I'm sorry for misleading you there. QuietPC still sell it, for £6:48 Red Wing 120mm Quiet Fan It's purely optional, and as JB and tootech said the PSU and rear fan will probably do an OK job of ventilating the case.

That seems like a pretty good deal for the samsung monitor. The main weakness that I can see is a low contrast ratio of 1000:1, but its other specs are OK. You won't notice the difference between VGA and DVI at the resolutions you are talking about; there will be practically no difference between the two. If this is the 22" you mean: Samsung SM2243LNX 22" TFT Monitor 1680x1050 10000:1 5ms VGA W/Mountable 3 Years Warranty - Glossy Black - Ebuyer Then it has the major advantage of size, which matters allot in a screen, plus superior specs in just about every sense. It all boils down to how much you can spend, and what you are willing to settle for. The budget screen you've found will do fine, but if you put it next to something like the 22" then the difference in picture quality will be obvious. I like the spec you've came up with on Ebuyer, the coolermaster case and PSU deal is good, and the rest of the components all fit in nicely. As for the question of an extra fan; I'm going to be awkward and say that I'd do it :D Computer components last longer when they run cooler. If the lifetime of your hardware can be increased by spending £3 on a fan, then I'd go for it. Xilence redwings are damn quiet; I've used them myself. They sell 12" versions on ebuyer that you won't be able to notice running. That's just my take on it though. If in dbout, I'd leave the fan out to begin with, build it, and then check the temperatures while it's running. If anything seems a bit hot for your liking then go for a 12" front fan.

If it is brand new then I would definately call HP about it, and tell them what's happened. It is possible that the graphics chip could be faulty or damaged, and would be worth investigating while the computer is still under warranty. Make sure to mention the strange logo, which sounds like a graphics fault to me, when you talk to them.

According to HP, this error code is caused by a failure of the graphics chip. If you are currently using the laptop however, then this doesn't seem to be correct, as you would just have a blank screen. I found this: Would be worth a try.

Hi Kate, welcome to Extreme Tech Support - Free PC Help Does the laptop turn on at all? Can you get into windows, or do you just get a blank screen?

Sorry about that, I've edited my link: they have 4 in stock last time I cheked. I know what you mean about insurance, I just thought I'd put up the option in case you were very worried about building yourself. As for static protection: just touch the metal part of a tap or radiator, then touch the metal of the case. Hold all circuit boards by the edges, and treat everything carefully. Read the manuals, look on google if in doubt, and of course come here to ask us :) Low profile just means that the card can fit into small, desktop style cases. It's not important, as it will fit normal cases just fine. What makes a good PSU, should really be who makes a good PSU. Brand is important, and the likes of Coolermaster, Corsair, Zalman, Antec, etc won't let you down. The PSU in my build isn't the best: I tried to get the cost down as much as I could, but if you are prepared to, then defiantely get a better one, like in JB's reccomendations.