BeeCeeBee

Sorry it took so long to reply. Can you hear the windows opening sound? It may be an issue with the thin cable that connects to screen to the body of the laptop. That would require opening the machine to check. Do you get any beeps when you try to boot up?

The specs I read must be wrong because that is not Svideo it is an ordinary analogue video input. SVideo looks quite different. But I don't see that on your TV unless it is up at the top where the Coax input seems to be. I have no idea what sort of cabling is available in the UK but if there is something that will convert the video signal to that yellow input then you can certainly get a cable that will convert your audio output to the red and white audio inputs. Those three inputs work together and will only work if they are selected. Now that I see that the HDMI must be on the top left if there is an SVideo I assume it is up there someplace. One thing I am quite sure of is that those 2 audio inputs will not work with the HDMI selected.

I am beyond my time to edit so please read my post above. I have thought of one ray of hope for you. The TV has an SVideo input. Since SVideo does not carry audio most TVs that have it as an alternate connection also has an audio input that is designed to work with it. Look at your TV if there is an audio input right at the SVideo connection then you should be able to get an adapter to use the svideo from your PV and use the existing audio with a basic cable.

OK I think I see your ptoblem. I don't know all that much about British TVs but I think you are trying to mix apples and oranges. HDMI carries both audio and video. So if you set your TV to HDMI for your monitor and you are set up so you are connecting the HDMI cable to your grapichs card using an adapter you are not going to get any sound period no matter what cables you use. Since you need to select an input on your TV and from what you have said you are using HDMI then there are no inputs that will give you sound. In that case you need to use speakers directly connected to the PC. Probably you will need to use the green analogue output. Keep in mind that monitors are just monitors and you are trying to convert it into a hybrid monitor and speaker system. That will generally not work. The photo above in post 10 is for a Component input. That means that for the audio to work along with the video you will need to set the input on the TV to component. Of course in that case you will then get sound but no picture. What you need to do is find an adapter that will go from whatever output is on your computer and convert it to componant. Unfortunately that is not as easy as it seems. because you may need 2 adapters for the single set of component cables. One for the three video inputs on the TV and another to convert your green output to the other 2 audio components on the TV. If your TV has a VGA input you will need to use that along with an analogue cable for audio. (If the TV has a VGA input then it will should (usually) also have a means of picking up sound from a simple mini jack cable.) Otherwise, If you have a stereo around try connecting your sound from the PC to the stereo system and see if that will give you sound from the stereo and graphics on the TV. EDIT: I just looked at the specs for that TV and it is simply not designed for use as a monitor. The only shot you have is to try the Stero as I suggested above. The HDMI converison you are using should allow you to use it as a monitor. The sound will have to come from another source. If your computer has speakers you should still be getting sound from them. If your connection to the TV causes the speakers to shut down then you are simply out of luck with that particular TV.

You need to contact a staff member (Administrator) and explain the need to delete a thread. Members do not have that permission and can only edit their own posts for a short time after posting.

It seems this thread is active in a number of sites. It may be wise for the member to select one for the benefit of everyone involved.

The first thing I would do is format the computer and restore it to its factory settings, To be ultra safe I would find some shredding software. If there is nothing all that important on it I would first to a manual delete of all files and then restore it. Once that is done I would donate it to a charity that will accept and distribute old computers. I found one list in the UK but have no idea if it is reliable or not. You will need to do the research any of the companies or charities listed. You may also get better results from the UK version of Google. http://www.itforcharities.co.uk/pcs.htm

Just following up on KenB's suggestion. In one of your posts you indicate that the CMOS battery came back to life. That didn't happen and without a good CMOS battery you cannot save any changes to your bios and expect them to remain. Since that bios dates back a bit, it probably is defaulting to a boot sequence that starts with a floppy drive. For many years floppys were the standard means of installing an operating system. In later years the manufacturers would simply change the boot sequence. Once the CMOS battery fails it can revert to the bios default and keep repeating causing you to lose whatever changes that were made. It would seem to me that unless you do what KenB has suggested nothing else that anyone may recommend to you can be relied on to stick.

Have you looked at the URL? If it is google.pt or anything that is not from an English speaking country it will appear in the native language. Go to google.com (USA) or .co.uk (UK) depending on where you are and you will get to where you want to go. Clear your cache and cookies in FFand it should get you there the next time you open google. If you want google as your home page reset it to current page once you are in the right version of google or simply type in the version you want in your settings.

After reading that I really only can see 2 points that are subject to comment since he apparently solved your initial problem with a hardware fix. 1. Are you sure he said a possibly dying Motherboard or could he have said Hard Drive. Other than certain "Beeps" I really don't know of any sound that is made by a potentially dying motherboard. Hard drives often give you warnings by making ticking or grinding sounds. To be honest though, I am not a hardware expert so maybe there is a MOBO sound like he said????? 2. He is half right about AVG, in my opinion (which seems to be shared by many others ) its reputation has been suspect for many years. On the other hand I would never use either McAfee or Norton either as both are intrusive and resource hogs. I use Microsoft Security Essential for a while as well as Avast. Both are free and seemed to do the job.

Well at least you should know that the kittens were saved. So I guess this is solved. :)

The problem is probably hardware related rather than in the software. (probably not definitely.) It may be a simple heat issue caused by excessive dust etc. It also may be a heat issue regarding your CPU overheating. Of course it may not be heat related at all and still be a hardware problem. It would be helpful if you supplied whatever specs you may have on that machine as the series seems to have been manufactured with a few different specs.

So let me see if I got this right. You can go to any website other than this one (the one with the link in your first post) and they are all fine except that one. I guess that you are suggesting that we all click on the link and look around and tell you how we made out. So I will save everyone the trouble. I clicked on your link and the background flickered and then my computer blew up and started a fire which caused my neighbor to run into the house in the hope of saving a box of new born kittens. So my advice is to get in touch with the people who run the website and tell them to get a handle on the flickering so that you don't have to spam another forum, Of course I may be wrong and you may be legit and I may just be in a very bad mood.

Yep and I hope I am wrong but I suspect you just wanted to get people to click on your link. On the chance that I have misjudged you please tell us more about your system and whether or not you have experienced the same thing on ANY other site.

Sometimes that is not enough. I have limited to no faith in AVG and while Malwarebytes is a really good program it is not infallible. If your profile is corrupted again you have to assume that it is not just a setting and may need to get some help from the Malware Removal Experts here on FPCH.

I don't know much about Chrome specifically but the statement that you fixed it because it was corrupt leaves room for some explanation. How was it corrupt.and how did you fix it? If your computer is infected sometimes when you think you have cleared the infection you find out that it just comes back. We need to determine if this is an issue with Chrome or Malware.

It seems that Ken is not here at the moment so if you will appreciate that he, I'm sure, knows far more about networking than I do, I will try to move things along. Where you put the repeater is a matter of trial and error to determine what is best in your environment. I would suggest that you position the repeater as close as you can to where you intend to use your laptop. Find a place where you are getting a strong connection from the router to the laptop and as long as it is a reasonable distance to the desired location you should be fine. One thing that has not been mentioned is your broadband speed. From what I understand, a repeater will eat into that somewhat but if you have a good broadband connection it should not be burdensome. Also you have not actually said that the router is wireless N. I think that is being assumed by the way you phrased your post. Have you considered borrowing a friend's laptop that is wireless N and seeing how it works at your location. Maybe invite him/her over and buy a pizza.

Were you using software supplied with the HDD or simply copying the files?

No the RAM it can handle refers to actual physical memory. Your virtual memory (page file) should be about 1 1/2 the physical memory. If that is off it may effect your performance. I hope that bit of information will better help you reply to KenB's post.

Do you think you can repost the issue using the standard editer? The space break code etc. Make it very difficult to read.

Just in the slight chance that you are reading KenBs advice as being 2 separate issues, they are not. You need to do both including replacing the CMOS battery. If you just follow the second set of instructions it is likely that the issue will return.

Following up on the last two posts. While your business may be considered a small company, creating a network that you describe is a genuine hands on IT project. It is not something that you can expect to resolve on a forum. You will need to hire or otherwise find someone who can do this for you on site. It is pretty clear that at very least you are going to have to have access to a proper server.

There are a number of things you can do. 1. If there is an ask toolbar in your programs you can simply uninstall it. (This is the bast way.) Ask is notorious for using 3rd party download sites to get itself installed. Next time you download a program of any kind make certain that you have a good look at each of the preticked boxes and don't fall for words like "recommended." 2. In Firefox under options you can select "toolbar layout" and a small window will open. Just drag Ask to the window and it will disappear from the browser window. 3. If ask is listed as an extension or add on simply disable it. Firefox has a good adblocking extension called adblock plus. Just go into the addons in your menu and select get ad ons. Search for adblock and it will give you the opportunity to install it directly.

The short answer is no as to your personal home computer and probably as to the business computer. You are not using the same router as the company. Your home router is used to give you a wireless connection to your own ISP. When you connect to the company servers you are doing so on the internet using settings provided by the company. Whether or not they can log in to the company computer remotely really depends on what is installed on that computer and how the company IP folks set things up. They will have access to anything you do that is done through the company server. So if you do company work on your personal computer and log on through it. They should be able to retrieve any data that is on their server, This should have no effect on your personal data that is separate form the work that you may be doing. . Of course all this assumes that your company is acting ethically and not hacking everyone's personal computer which is unlikely.

It looks like you have 2 threads running on what amounts to the same issue. Since KenB is dealing with it I suggest you stick to one thread before thing get really confused. http://extremetechsupport.com/threads/13712-need-help-badly-computer-cuts-after-10-seconds