Plastic Nev

In addition to Goku's advice, please look here- http://extremetechsupport.com/forum/malware-removal-av-firewalls-etc/5533-free-pc-help-p2p-policy.html Need we say any more?

Hi Tis, re open the regional and languages box, click on the drop down for "English (UK)" and re-select "English (UK)" then click "apply". See if that forces the system back to where it should be. At the moment it seems to be set for American English.

And a happy birth day from me too. Goku, you missed me out, I also love the product of malt and hops.:D

It sometimes never does end, you gain more and more knowledge, try more and more combinations, then start advising others how to do the same, and finish up as a moderator on here, no it never does end.:D :D I love it. Nev.

I also go with Tootech in general, however you won't go far wrong in dumping the CA, and using either Avast or Avira and leave the rest alone, it is a good line up as it stands. You can add to it though, Superantispyware is a good addition as also is Spywareblaster. Add to that McAffee site advisor for that extra bit of help in recognising good or bad websites. Couple that with sensible use of the internet and you can't go far wrong. Nev.

Welcome Pingu I hope you may find some useful information here, and maybe some help too. Also you may find something you can add help to as well. Nev.

Hi Brian considering that the error code states to get in touch with HP, and your monitor is HP, I am pretty sure it is a monitor problem rather than the computer. However to be sure, do you have access to a different monitor to prove it? Without knowing exactly what that code number means, it may just be the monitor flagging up that there is no signal, or the wrong type of signal from the computer. Mains power failure can do some drastic damage, so I would recommend you buy a surge protector socket to go between the mains and the computer, once you have got to the bottom of this failure.

Just on the off chance, while it was in storage before fitting to the new build have any of the contacts been damaged both on the motherboard socket or the RAM stick, if they look straight and not damaged, simply plugging it in and removing it a few times might clear off any oxide or dirt on the contacts.

Hi Bob, just open your "Add or Remove Programs, or the Vista equivalent, and have a look, just in case it is something you tried and forgot about. If there is something there uninstall it. You may be able to reinstall if you find it is something you do need.

Hi, Welcome to Extreme Tech Support - Free PC Help, from me. Have you seen this thread here- http://extremetechsupport.com/forum/dvd-cd-rom-drives-and-printer-scanner-issues/4964-hl-dt-st-dvdram-gsa-t20n-ata-not-work-please-help.html Have a read of it, I think you may find you have been down the same road. Do take note of the last entry from Goku. Try his method and reboot as he says. Let us know if that helps. If no luck after that it may be the drives electronics may have died. In which case it will be a new drive you will need.

Hi, do you have the Arcon 3D architect software installed? If so, perhaps uninstalling it then a reinstall may help. It looks like some program file has been corrupted.

Hi, to be able to use the external CD drive to try and run the XP CD, you may have to alter the boot settings in the BIOS. Plug the drive in with the CD in it, then to get into the BIOS try this- BIOS Access Procedure 1 Boot the system up and hold down the‘Esc’ key, then press F1 when you get the check system message. You are then in the BIOS Setup and you can make your changes and save and exit by pressing the ‘End’ key. Once in the BIOS alter the boot order to the external drive as first If that doesn't get you into BIOS have a look here and try the other methods. Toshiba - FAQ If that doesn't work, I am afraid you will have to replace the on board drive to get any further. Nev.

'Tis only us northerners wot might get 't best out 'o this. http://www.uktfs.co.uk/manuals/humour/wordfornortherners.pdf Please don't ask us for translation, we can only speak or write northern. Nev, (from up 't north)

Hi again, First I am hoping you haven't done something to the BIOS that will stop this from working. you don't say whether this is a desk top or laptop, so for now I will assume it is a desktop machine. So here goes, first shut down the machine then disconnect or turn off the power and remove the cover. Locate the leads plugged into the back of the disk drive and remove them. Then temporarily replace the cover, power back on and reboot. This will allow Windows to see there is no drive attached and will reset itself. Once you are sure it has fully booted, shut it down, then go back to power off, and replace all the plugs. When it next boots up Windows should discover new hardware and either install new drivers or ask to look for them on the web. I know all of that can be done by uninstalling it in windows, but doing a fully physical disconnect is more certain to make Windows do a new hardware discovery and sort out fresh drivers. Let us know if that helps. Nev.

Ok Zuki mate, we will take the simple stuff first, have you looked in "My Computer" does it show the disk drive there at all?

Hi, have you tried uninstalling Media player 11. It should roll back to Media player 10 automatically, then try your video or other media while in Media Player 10. There have been some odd bugs in Media player 11 that Microsoft haven't yet fixed, even after all this time. Let us know how you get on.

Hi, and welcome from me too, reading through, you say ordinary programs are OK and not too slow, and it is only the internet that is slow. If that is the case it may well be your ISP. (internet service provider) there are several upload and download tests that can help prove that, just follow instructions here- Speedtest.net - The Global Broadband Speed Test Please let us know the results you get. You may even be better trying several tests at various times of the day too. Nev.

Hi again, yes they are needed. I really wanted a full list of them then I can advise from that. However I realise we don't as yet know enough about the machine itself. Can you tell us the Make, type, model number. Also can you find us the more technical details. You can find them on the general tab of system properties. to get there click "Start" then "Run" and type (without the quotation marks) "sysdm.cpl" then click OK.

OK it doesn't look like a process then, and I assume things are still slow? I will have to think and do a bit of research next. In the mean time can you have a look at what is running in total, and see if any is not needed?

That's great Charlotte and thanks for letting us know, don't hesitate to come back if you have any other problems. Also please do look round the rest of the forums. You may be surprised and find something else of use from help we have given to someone else. You never know you may even find you have an idea that might help someone too. My regards to you, Nev.

Hi again, I can't see why, but removing that Logitech program may have also removed the keyboard drivers, considering the mouse is working OK can you please follow what I suggested above, once on that "Hardware window, click "Properties" another window will open, click the "Driver" tab and you should see "Update driver" click on that and Widows should then go online and look for and install the latest drivers for your keyboard. Hope that helps, Nev.

Hi Charlotte, Is your mouse pad working OK? if so use copy and paste to copy this- " control keyboard " (without the quotation marks) Next click on "Start" then "Run" and then paste the above in the box and click OK. In the window that opens click on "Hardware" Let us know what is in that box, and whether it says at "Device status" this device is working properly. or any other message.

Hi again, a lot of tracking cookies there, you can safely delete all of them. Now to see what could be slowing things down, it could be a process running in the background that is using a large amount of your processor. To help find if this is the case and what it is, go to "Start" > Run > and type in (without the quotation marks "taskmgr" This will open a window, and if not already on "Performance" click on the "Performance" tab. You should then see two graphs running in real time, if there is a few spikes but with lots of little ups and downs then we are at a dead end there. However, if the graph shows a high to fairly high line continuously, and the CPU usage shows a figure more than 70% continuously, the next thing to look at is to click the "Processes" tab. It shows the headers, Image name-- User name-- CPU-- Mem Usage. Scroll down the list and look for a process with a continuously high figure under the CPU column, and let us know what it is.

Hi Old tymer, let us see what Malwarebytes, finds if anything, also Superantispyware, I want to be absolutely sure you are free of any malware before looking elsewhere for the slow running problem.

Hi, sorry for the delay, I have been busy and away for a couple of days, and it looks like your problem had slipped the net a little. Not to worry, at least I am back:) Is your Norton anti-virus now working correctly? If so one thing we haven't asked you is to open Norton and do a full scan for virus, see if it finds anything and let us know. Next is to open Malwarebytes, click on the update to update it to the current status and scan again with that. Also do the same again with the Superantispyware. Let us know what you get, and where possible post the logs of what each one finds please. Nev.