KenB

Hi and welcome to ExTS If this is a Win 7 system you can produce an ISO version of the OS. click here You must make sure that the version that you select is exactly the same as the one on your system at the moment. Even down to 64 bit or 32 bit.

Good point Nev :) Just a thought - do you have a Molex connection that you can use to power the drive that you are adding ? If not - use the one from the DVD Drive as a temporary measure :)

It could be that one of the modules has a problem. Try cleaning the contacts of all with a pencil eraser and re-seat them in the slots. Run the scan again to see if you get the same result. You could try taking one module out and running the scan - you are looking for the one that is not being recognised.

Try this: Go to My Computer > C Drive > Documents and Settings ........... as you did before. Find the .exe and right click on it > Copy Go back to the Desktop and right click on the Desktop > Paste. If this works for Word ( and the rest ) ........... delete the problem icon by right clicking > delete. ============ If you have a lot of problem icons try a System Restore to a date when you know they were working. Start > Run ....type in ......msconfig ......ENTER click on "Launch System Restore" Follow the screen prompts. All data / files / photos etc will be fine.

Hi It could be linked to your motherboard. If the max it will support is only 1GB then this is all you will see. If there was only 512Mb in - it does sound like an old system. Run the Crucial scanner from here - click here It will tell you the maximum that your system will support. Let us know the results. Also ........... Which method are you using to discover the amount of RAM that Windows sees ?

Hi and welcome to ExTS Are you suggesting that you remove the DVD Drive and replace it with the IDE drive ? or Do you wish to add the drive to the existing IDE cable - assuming that there is a connection. ( see below ) http://www.betaarchive.com/imageupload/1304159566.or.33063.gif Either way will be OK. You may need to check the jumper at the back of the drive ........... depends what you wish to do. There is an alternative and that is to buy an IDE to USB external enclosure and put the drive in this. This would give you a portable drive. A bit safer if you are using it for backups. Prices vary: ( not suggesting eBay ..... just using as an example ) click here

Hi and welcome from me too :) This could be the PSU as Nev has suggested. I have also had one recently that showed the same symptoms as you describe ............. it turned out to be one of the RAM modules at fault. Try taking the RAM out - give the connections a clean with a pencil eraser - then put just one back. Try booting from this. If the situation is the same - swap the other module and try this one. In other words - try the RAM one at a time.

Hi Ron Thanks for the feedback - I will mark this one up as "Solved" You know where we are if you have any more problems :)

Thanks Randy :)

Hi Ron and welcome to ExTS I am assuming that the icons are web-based ?? Try the following: ( hope this is OK for Win7 ) 1. Click Start, select Default Programs 2. Select your web browser (e.g. Internet Explorer) from the list 3. Click Set this program as default 4. Click OK If that doesn’t do it, follow these steps: 5. Click Set program access and computer defaults 6. Click Custom, and select your web browser 7. Click OK.

Hi Matt and welcome to ExTS Can you access / right click on the applications if you boot up in Safe Mode ? Switch on > constantly tap F8 about once per second > select Safe Mode from the list of options. Graphics will look a bit odd due to minimal drivers.

Hi and welcome to ExTS Could this be a fan or is it an "electrical" hum ? If it is a fan you could try "Speedfan" and control the speed of the fans from the software. click here There is a tutorial here click here If it is electrical - it could be the Power Supply Unit ............... hard to say without hearing it.

Also ........... adding to what Synapse has said.... If the wireless channel is set already to ( say ) 6 try changing it to either 1 or 11 It could be wireless interference causing your problem.

Hi and welcome to ExTS Without a budget it is hard to suggest anything. Take a look here - click here

Hi again, Firstly an apology ....... I obviously missed your last 2 posts from 2011 I suggested in a previous post that you try a USB Wireless Adapter - did you try this ? They are not expensive and would rule out the internal wireless adapter. I was thinking at the time that the wireless adapter could be faulty.

What you describe is typical behaviour of a problematic PSU. They will often perform normally once booted up ...... unless under load. They will also give problems if the system has been shut down. I hope I have diagnosed your problem correctly - the new PSU will soon let you know :)

Let us know how you get on :)

I am not too sure about this reading. One second it is showing 0v and at the same time ( 08-04 pm ) it is back to 5.2 v If there was a minute between the times I would be happier to say that this is conclusive. The problem is we are relying on software and as explained earlier - you cannot rely on software to record voltages accurately. There is another option: Take the 550 Watt PSU to a local computer tech ( a small one or two man business is often better ) and ask him to check it over. He will be able to test it under load. I suggest that you ask how much he will charge before you pass the PSU over. ( if it fails I would still ask for the PSU back ) There is a PSU tester that you can buy: click here This will test the 3 voltages ( not under load ) and give you an LED readout that will be reasonably accurate. ( look for reviews if you intend buying something like this ) I THINK it is your PSU that is the problem - but in problems like this it is impossible to be 100% sure. The only way to be totally sure is to try another PSU that is powerful enough to cope with the requirements of your system.

This is difficult to say and be 100% sure. Your machine will not boot at all using you old 550Watt PSU. It does boot from the 250 Watt PSU - but not all the time. The problems you are having point to the PSU - there is an outside chance that it could also be the motherboard ...... but I doubt it. If the motherboard has a problem it tends to be consistent. What you are getting is inconsistent behaviour. ( usually PSU ) If it were me I would try a new PSU. Good makes include: OCZ / Thermaltake / Seasonic / Corsair / Antec You need a minimum of 400 Watts ............ I suggest looking at 500 - 550 Watt PSUs Use Google and post a couple that fit your price range. There are no guarantees - but I am fairly confident that a new PSU is in order.

This is often related to Direct X. Try deleting it and re-installing. If that doesn't fix the error - it could be related to a driver. This card requires 400Watts minimum - it may be why you are having intermittent problems with the 250 Watt PSU. ( although it SHOULD boot up )

This is the BIOS getting as far as the Power On Self Test ( POST ) and failing to pass the test procedure. ( obviously - as there was no RAM ) This could be related to the on-board video ...... There is obviously some power getting to the motherboard as the POST generated a fail beep code. Which Video Card do you have in? Try switching back to that > put the RAM back in > try booting up. It could be, depending on the video card, that the 250Watts is not enough.

Which implies that the original PSU was at fault. Usually it will boot up ( as you found earlier ) - even with 250 Watts. Take out the RAM / Video Card / Sound Card If you have on-board video use this. Switch on. You should get something on screen. ( You will also get POST beeps ) If no on-board video you will have to leave the video card in. Let me know the results.

Hi Try a System Restore to a date when the pc was working properly. With Win7 you should be able to click on Start > type in ....system restore ...ENTER Follow the screen prompts. Your files / photos etc will be fine. This just re-sets the system settings to what they were on the selected date. It will also eliminate any downloads / updates since the selected date.

Hi and welcome to ExTS If the fan is constantly running and the machine is shutting down ..........this could be overheating. Try a system restore to before the date that you d/l the HP drivers. With Vista: This will explain - click here Your files / photos etc will be fine. Let us know how you get on.

Those voltages, if correct, would be fine. It is odd though, that all are higher. Usually with old PSUs the voltages would tend to be lower. There is no substitute for a physical test or better still - swapping the PSU :)