KenB

Hi and welcome to ExTS Try uninstalling and re-installing the drivers for the Network Adapter. or If you have updated these recently roll back to an earlier version. Start > Run ....type in .....devmgmt.msc ....ENTER Make a note of what is listed against Network Adapters. If you right click on the device .....you have options there.

michaelsmith ...... Don't you read the thread ?????? Carole said in post 3...

Hi and welcome. Take a look here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-graphics-card,2964.html Depending on the card you select you may need to upgrade the PSU too. Your specs do not list the Power Supply Unit rating ( in Watts ). You can find this on a sticker on the unit itself if you take a look - It will probably be in the range 350W

There are no "daft" questions - only questions that need answers :) Glad to hear you are up and running again.

Hi, Whistle - clicking .......could be the same problem - more than likely 2 different things. I am more concerned with the clicking at the moment. If this is coming from the Hard Drive then it could well be failing ( mechanically ). Suggest that you backup all data that you need - before it dies on you. Clicking is a known symptom of a failing drive. It could be a fan touching one of the trailing wires - check this too.

Here we go again!! jinkie, ignore the previous post by michaelsmith, he means well but confuses the issue !! Check that your boot sequence in the BIOS is set to DVD CDROM as the first boot option. To do this when you swith on you will be prompted to .. "Press Dell (or could be F2 or other ) to enter setup" This will show ( normally ) bottom left. Once in the BIOS you are looking for "Boot Order" "Boot Sequence" or similar. CDROM must be first in the order. If it isn't you need to move it. (there will be a panel on the right that advises how to ) It is normally done with the arrow keys and + / - Save and exit ( normally F10 ) (I am away for a few weeks and do not have regular network connection) :)

michaelsmith - Have you read the previous posts?? J-B has diagnosed a failed backlight ..... confirmed by jakethe snake ..... Where does missing dll files come from ??? Have you copied this from another forum ?? The answer is "Yes" !! See supportfordell. All this is doing is confusing the poster. If you don't know - leave it to those who do !|

Are you still having problems with this Jenn ?

No. A virus is software -a hard disk is hardware. It is not common - but is does happen. Hard Drives can fail. Assume you are up and running again ?

Hi and welcome to ExTS Try a can of compressed air through the vents. It could be a buildup of dust causing your problem.

Hi, I am away from tomorrow for 4/5 weeks. One more thing to try: With all cards etc. disconnected - unscrew the m/board and sit it on a newspaper to insulate it from the case. Switch on. If no beeps check that you do have a small speaker connected on the m/board. If it is there you should get POST beeps. No beeps indicates PSU or m/board. If you DO get POST beeps then you had a short between the m/board and the case. Make sure that there are no loose screws etc underneath the m/board and that the standoffs ( spacers ) are all present. If you have a volt-meter you can test the PSU. See here: http://kenspchelp.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10 The best test is to replace the PSU with a spare if you have one. It doesn't matter if this is a different wattage - it would still boot up.

Hi Bill and welcome to ExTS Switch on and immediately start tapping F8. This should get you to the Advanced Startup Options. Select "Last Known Good Configuration" - see if it will boot from this. Will it boot up from Safe Mode ( from the same list ) ?

OK - Drastic action :) Switch off at the wall. Disconnect Printer and all other external devices. Take ALL cards out ( RAM / Sound / Video etc etc ) Disconnect the data and power cables from the Hard Drive and DVD CDROM drives at the m/board end. Leave only the 20(4) way connection attached to the motherboard. Check the case for excess dust. Blow this away or use a soft brush. Switch on. The machine should POST ( beep ) but should not crash. Leave it for a while if it appears stable. If it isn't stable you have a PSU or m/board problem.

No problem at all J-B :) It looks as if this poster may have abandoned us.

Hi and welcome to ExTS Assuming this is a desktop? Switch off at the wall. Disconnect the printer and any other external devices. Take all cards out except Video card ( for the moment ). So - remove RAM / Sound / Ethernet / etc Disconnect the data cable and the power supply connection from the hard drive and the DVD CDROM. Leave only the 20(4) way connection from the PSU connected. Unscrew the motherboard and sit it on a piece of card / newspaper to insulate it from the case. Switch on. You should get POST beeps. ( if the internal speaker is connected ) Do you? You should get something on screen and it should not crash. Is this the case? If it crashes now swap the Video Card ( if you have one ) and try again. Let me know the results.

5 questions - 2 answers. I need more information otherwise we are going to be here for a very long time.

You are welcome.

Hi and welcome to ExTS. How are you connecting ? A Caddy ( enclosure ) ? A HDD to USB adapter ? Does the USB port recognise other USB devices ? Have you tried this on another computer? If so - do you get the same error message ?

Hi and welcome to ExTS Start > ....type in ......devmgmt.msc ........ENTER Click the + next to "Mice and other Pointing Devices". You should see ..........TouchPad ..... or similar. Right click on this > Uninstall This will uninstall the drivers. If you lose touchpad functionallity ... CTRL + ESC use the arrow keys to navigate to the "Shut Down" option. When you re-boot Windows will re-install the drivers.

Hi, System specs for your card: http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/amd-radeon-hd-6000/hd-6850/Pages/amd-radeon-hd-6850-overview.aspx#3 Suggestion is minimum 500Watt PSU. Your 600Watt should cope with no problems.

Hi Steph Strange. Is there a monitor icon ( bottom right of screen ) ? If so - right click on this and select "Diagnose and Repair". If this runs through the process - try connecting again. If it fails - what error message do you get? Click on the monitor icon again... "Connect to a Network" is there. Click on this. You should see your network. Does it say you are connected? If you point the screen curser at this it should tell you the Security Type ( WEP / WPA2 ) What is it set to? If you are not connected what happens when you try to connect? =============== If you are still having problems try switching the router off > leave it for a minute or so > switch on again. Try connecting again. =============== The Network Key should be on the base / back of the router. Make sure that you are typing this correctly. A "0" for instance can be confused as can a "1".

Hi Kiremix, Glad it worked out for you :) If you think this was a virus ( did a scan by an AV find anything? ) then I suggest that you let Starbuck or etavares take a look at your system. Even though it is up and running again there could be remnants of the virus / malware still there. Let me know if you wish to go further with this.

Hi, Yes - still following the thread :) Connect to the internet wirelessly. Start ...type in ......cmd ( do not hit enter yet ) Right click on the "cmd" that appears at the top of the box. Run as Administrator. At the command prompt carefully type the following: ping 8.8.8.8 -t -l 1 There is a space after g / 8 / t / l ( the l is a lower case L ........the 1 is a number ) Click the - ( top right ) to shrink this - do not close it. This will constantly send 1 packet of data - hopefully your connectionwill not drop.

Not really - if the Recovery Partition exists. This is assuming that there is not a hardware problem. Give it a try - nothing to lose.

OK. Just because the machine was bought August last year it doesn't mean that the m/board is that recent. I still cannot discover if the PCIe architecture is 2.0 or 2.1 - but no matter. Your m/board will support Video Cards with either 2.0 or 2.1 architecture as 2.1 is backwards compatible with earlier versions. It really depends on how much you want to spend on a card. Take a look here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-graphics-card,2964.html Be aware: Your PSU only shows as being 250Watt in the specs. If you are upgrading the card - you will no doubt have to upgrade the PSU too. This will depend on your choice of card. Also: Many Video Cards require their own power connection. Check this out and ensure that the PSU has a spare connection ( most do ). EDIT: I have just read the specs of your m/board again. It is a Micro ATX - which is a compact m/board. You may have difficulty with larger cards.