KenB

Hi again silva You will fit in well here then .... most of us have been around the block more than once !! :) Sometimes the ones at the back ( or front ) develop problems and if you try the opposite side it often solves the problem. They are independent of each other. Please do come back and let us know how you get on ...... we are always here to help. If you post back - let us know the make and model number of your computer please and which Operating System you are using.

Hi Ray Try the drivers from here - click here Make sure you get the 32 or 64 bit to match your Operating System.

I'm not sure that this is an option after the image has been saved. I will ask Nev to see if he has an answer to this one :)

Hi Silva The cable looks like this - it is a Printer Data Cable http://salestores.com/stores/images/images_747/USB2AB-Blue.jpg The connection on the left fits the USB port on your PC and the other one connects to the printer. You can buy these cables anywhere - eBay - Computer stores - even some supermarkets. ( You will pay more from major computer stores ) They come in different lengths - measure the one you have already ... it really depends how far from the printer your PC is. [ The length of the cable does not affect the printing function ] Have you tried a different USB port on your computer. If it is a desktop - try the USB ports that are at the back ( or front if using the back already ) It does sound like a connection problem. Let us know which computer you have and the Operating System please. We may need this information if we need to look for up to date drivers. One or two more questions ..... Has this printer ever worked properly with this computer ? If so - how long ago ?

It could be that one of them is faulty too. If your system has an internal speaker ( working ) then with the board stripped sight down to just the 20(4) way connection from the PSU - it should give you POST beeps. If it doesn't - as already stated - then this implies m/board or PSU. 1. Are you sure that you used the stand-offs from the old m/board when you fitted the new one? 2. Strip the board right down - leave the 20(4) way cable connected. Unscrew the m/board and sit it on some card or newspaper to insulate it from the case. Switch on. If you get POST beeps now then there was a short between the m/board and the case. ( Look at the stand-offs ) 3. If the above doesn't help then check out the PSU - click here You could always ask a local tech to test it for you - ask how much this would cost. I really think that your problem lies with either the PSU or the m/board as it cannot be anything else.

Were the m/board and PSU actually new - or were they from another system ?

Let us know how you get on :)

Sounds like a bargain :)

No - not at all. With the RAM removed you should get POST beeps. Take a look here - click here If you have tried all of this then you need to check out the Hard Drive as Nev suggests. I am a little confused as you say that you have changed the PSU and m/board - you should get POST Beeps if you did before.

Hi Ray / Seedy I do think you are both right and somebody else is barking up the wrong tree :) http://lestrollops.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/barking-up-wrong-tree.jpg?w=388

Hi A pic of the inside would not really help us identify your problem. Before you try what Nev has suggested: Take the side panel off - then switch on and try to boot up. 1. Are all of the fans spinning - especially the CPU fan ? 2. Can you hear the hard drive spinning up 3. Take the RAM out and switch on - do you get any beeps now?

http://www.bestemoticon.com/smiley/danse/36_2_36.gif Nev has given you some good advice. Win 7 will suit you fine. It is a little different from XP - but nothing as drastic as Win 8. Unless you get your pc built for you you will not get what you want - that is for sure. Every new PC on sale these days has Win 8 on it. Very pleased you got a result out of Currys / PC World - well done. It pays to keep the pressure on :)

Hi Peter Does this help ? - click here

Now I think about it .....I'm thinking that the 6GB is the installed RAM

You only need one caddy. You DO need to know which hard drive Windows is on. Who told you this ? It doesn't make any sense to me at all. This is always a last resort. What does the error message say ? If you can get to Advanced Boot Options is "Repair your Computer" an option? If it is - give it a try. If your hard drives are 500GB and just 6GB then the Operating System will be on the 500GB one.

This is definitely a hard drive. Do you have the caddy yet? The next stage is to connect it up to another system and run a couple of checks on it. If you do have the caddy - let me know if the drive is recognised and allocated a drive letter.

Hi If what you are talking about looks like this - click here - you have 2 hard drives. If they look like this - click here - They are RAM ( Random Access Memory ) If they are RAM - they will be 4GB each. Both are "memory". The RAM is used by Windows - you cannot save anything to it. The Hard Drives are you memory store. Here you save your photos / files etc. Windows is installed on one of the Hard drives ( if you have 2 ) This is called the Primary Drive and will show up as C:/ in "Computer" No - they are not standard. You can get small ones ( small in capacity - not size ) that are 40GB and they increase up to 1 TB ( Terabyte ) or even larger. Your 400GB is average but drives are tending to get larger in new machines. If you connect the hard drive up to another machine let us know if you can see it in "Computer" as a drive letter ( F:/ for instance ) If you can see it you should be able to access your files etc. We can also run some checks on the drive from here.

What comes around goes around !! Nothing wrong with familiarity in my opinion - M$ seem to acknowledge this if they are bringing it back. Just another money-spinner.

Sorry to hear that you had problems with a link from this site Woodworker ...it is difficult to check out everything that is posted. You will notice that Airborne is actually banned ( not for posting this link I may add ) I have deleted the link as requested.

I have said this before - there are some very clever people out there. Create a piece of malware and wait for the cash to roll in. Take the first 512 bits of data from the file header and store it at the back of the file for renewal later - seemingly so simple. You have to take your hat off to the guys at Bleeping for finding a solution to this one. :)

Good to hear that you have found the cause :) I will mark this one as "Solved" .

I am still confused .... ( it doesn't take much !! ) Disk manager shows the partition as "Logical" I know an Extended partition can be sub-divided but it would show up in Disk management as "Extended" not "Logical" or a series of Logical Partitions. There is only one showing here. Never mind - problem solved. :)

Thanks for the feedback - I am sure that this will help others :)

That is good news - was it the "Take Ownership" download or turning off UAC ..........or something else that did it ?

Hi I does sound like a loose connection although the CPU fan not working will not help as the CPU will start to get very hot. The LED on the motherboard is no indication that the PSU is OK. Download Speccy if you can. click here You want the FREE version. Run it - and post the log here. It will give an indication of the internal temperatures. Do you get any error message when it dies or does the power just shut off and screen goes black ? This is not good. Take a look inside - specifically at the motherboard and around the CPU You are looking for discoloured capacitors and see if there is an electrical burning smell. I don't advise you doing this with the machine on - you could run it until i crashes then switch off at the wall.