KenB

Hi and welcome to ExTS To be perfectly frank - this machine should have been sent back under warranty after it started having problems in the first 6 months. All of this points to hard drive problems. Let's run a test on the drive. Download Seatools test software from here: click here [you need to click on "Downloads] You want the Windows Version ( not DOS ) if your system is bootable. There is a PDF tutorial on the right side of the page. Run the test on all partitions of your drive. Let us know the results please. ======================= This could be a hardware problem or it could be related to drivers. Suggest we stick with the Hard Drive issue and look at this later.

Hi and welcome to ExTS Try Revo Uninstaller click here Scroll down for the FREE version. Just a note re. Registry Cleaners / Boosters We don't recommend that you use this type of software. It can do more harm than good.

Hi Big Trev and welcome to ExTS Can you explain this further please ? How are you connecting to the projector ? VGA / HDMI ? What is the make and model number of the projector please ? I assume that you are using Win 7 ? This may be of use later: DisplayPort supports resolutions up to 2560 x 1600, 30-bit color depth at 60 Hz, and full HD (1920 x 1080) monitors, 24-bit color depth at 120 Hz VGA port supports resolutions up to 2048 x 1536 at 75 Hz, and lower resolutions at up to 100 Hz

No problem Jim :) I know you will keep us informed as to the progress .....

Based on what has been said here ,,,,,,,,,,,, try creating a new account and run Google Earth from there to see if you get the same problem.

Hi The only thing I can suggest is that you run system restore and revert the system settings to a date just prior to the start of your problem. Point the mouse curser to the top right corner and click on the search option. Type in ......system restore ......then click on settings Click the system restore button and follow the prompts. Your data / files / photos etc will be fine.

Thanks for the feedback - good to hear that you fixed your problem.

Hi Jim, Just a note re Amazon: You have to be very careful these days who you are buying from. The "dealer" from your original link ( where the power lead was missing ) could be somebody operating from home. ( Just checked yours - they seem legitimate ) The "dealers" are not vetted at all. Anybody can advertise ................ I know because my brother in law has done this with LG web cams. Also I have ordered thermal paste recently and ended up in dispute with the "company". Delivery time was over a month ! It turns out that they were from Hungary !! - although they sounded very British. Amazon will let anybody sell.

If the monitor is a common factor Ray - it is worthwhile trying another. ( Don't go out and buy one :) )

Hi Yes - your components list is compatible as far as I can tell. The 6670 is a good card. If you are pressed for cash then it is a good alternative. see here This features a 1GB version - the 2GB would handle gaming better I think.

Hi Jim Can you post a link to the SATA to USB cable please ?

Hi Jim Your second link takes me to a Kodak Printer ??? There is no difference in the connection - but there is in the data transfer speed USB 3 is up to 10 times faster than USB2. It is possible to get an extension or a splitter. You can use a hard disk to USB adapter if you wish. http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00HBjQKDrMLskS/SATA-to-USB-3-0-Cable-WLX891U3-.jpg

Hi and welcome to ExTS I am not a gamer - so will not be able to comment on quality etc. What you have will produce a reasonably quick PC. I would suggest the following Video Card: GTX 650 Ti Boost There is a 1GB and a 2GB option. The 2GB would deal with bottlenecking far better otherwise, from what I have read, they are comparable. I found a 2GB version here: click here Recommendation: click here

If you think that it may be a problem - use it as little as possible until you get it cloned. Remember cloning / creating an image will copy exactly what is on the drive ...... errors too. ( not physical errors :) )

Hi Jim You have me a little confused :) Download Macrium to your present hard drive and install it. This assumes that your present hard drive is working OK at the moment. If it isn't you can't go any further. You need an external hard drive ( new ? ) You would be best advised to buy something like this: click here They come enclosed with the relevant connections. You don't need to be concerned about 2.5 or 3.5 inch other than 2.5 inch will be smaller physically. ( you are just going to use this as an external hard drive for storage ) If you are going to clone the old hard drive then you will need another hard drive that you are going to install into your PC as a replacement for your present one. This MUST be SATA and 3.5 inches. You must also have some method of connecting this to the old PC. This can be done as described earlier - direct to the motherboard using a SATA cable / Caddy to USB / USB to SATA adapter. You need a CD and a working CDROM drive to burn the software needed to run the recovery when you need it. This is done from the installed software. You are going to clone the old drive to the 3.5 SATA one directly. You are then going to create an image of the old drive to the external hard drive. Don't forget to burn the required software so that you can recover the image if you ever need to. ( I would copy this CD so that you have 2 copies :) ) If you are going to image your wife's drive you will need to install Macrium on her PC too. Now refer to the tutorial on my site ( KenspcHelp ).

CPUs rarely give problems - but that doesn't mean they don't .....................let us know how you get on :)

Hi Jim This is a "caddy" http://www.gameseek.co.uk/images/products/35_ic-2936035-2147.jpg The hard drive connects up inside ( just pushes onto the connections ) > pop the lid back and connect up to USB port. Some have their own mains power adapter - some use the 5v available from the USB port. You could use the space in the desktop for the second hard drive if you wish. Do you have a spare SATA port on the motherboard to connect the data cable to ? ( assuming you have a spare data cable ? ) You would also need a spare power connection from the PSU too if you decided to go for this method. The main thing is to save the image to a different drive from the original. Obviously if the original dies you would not be able to get at the image if you saved it to a partition on the original HDD. I don't see any IDE cable in your photos - so assume that you have SATA. One more thing ..... Desktop HDDs are 3.5 inch ( laptops are 2.5 inch ) If you wanted to use the new drive as a replacement at some point you would need a 3.5 inch SATA. If you wanted to utilise the space in the desktop for the drive - again .....3.5 inch. If you just wanted to use the external drive as an external drive then it wouldn't matter which one. You could just buy an external hard drive - it would come cased and no need to bother with caddies.

Hi Jim If you are going to use them just for storing the image ( and other stuff ) then either would do as your original HDD is 500GB and the WD = 500GB and presumably the Seagate is at least that big. If you are going to burn a direct copy for a straight swap then you would need to check that the HDD you are buying has the same connections as the existing one. It is probably SATA .......... but there are still some IDE drives about that use molex power connections and a broad grey data cable. ( SATA uses much smaller data cables and the power connection is much slimmer ) Ask if unsure :)

There doesn't look too much to be concerned about - I will ask one of out security experts ......just in case :)

Thanks for the feedback Ray :)

I hope not - I still have an XP machine :)

Hi, The connection is OK with ethernet cable - so, as Ray says, it is just the wireless side of the router. It is affecting more than one device - again pointing back to the router. 1. What is the make and model number of the router please? 2. How old is it ? 3. Do you know how to change the channel in the router software? I am thinking that it may be radio interference. I have had problems like this before - it has turned out to be the router playing up and needing replacement.

Sorry Ray - I didn't answer this: No - not really.......then again possibly :) It should have worked using a monitor. It could be that the resolution was not compatible with the monitor.......but would be OK if there was a screen ( we will never know ) It could be that the Toshiba drivers were corrupt or even the wrong ones.

You didn't say if the system worked before you flashed the BIOS .... not that it matters now as you have a new motherboard. Back to basics. http://s13.zetaboards.com/kenspchelp...6964867/1/#new Strip all major hardware and connections off the board. Leave only the 20(4) way PSU connection. Switch on. System should be stable ....fans spinning ...LEDs lit etc. .....and you should get POST beeps if there is an internal speaker. If it is stable... put the Video Card in and connect up the monitor. ( leave everything else off ) Switch on. Again you should get POST beeps ( may be a different pattern ) What do you get on screen ? Did you use your old CPU or a new one ? If the old one - did you re-seat the heatsink and fan with new thermal paste ?

Hi [ in MBAM ] Click on Logs > open the latest ( it will open in Notepad ) > Copy this and post it here please.