KenB

You asked for recommendations ..... I don't use an external drive but this link suggests the 10 best options. - =b&google_params[network]=g&google_params[device]=c&google_params[creative]=355791965420&google_params[keyword]=&google_params[adposition]=1t1&google_params[adgroupid]=70907655974&google_params[campaignid]=2036130623&bs=&google_params[feeditemid]=&google_params[targetid]=dsa-437115340933&google_params[loc_interest_ms]=&google_params[loc_physical_ms]=1007100&google_params[devicemodel]=&google_params[target]=&new_api=true&dest=0&sys_id=0|611&gclid=Cj0KCQjws7TqBRDgARIsAAHLHP5ndbimWYS_Mc4NR35XhI1hsy8-h0MHiB3VqLuSh27G740_h0-fNgsaAkD6EALw_wcB']click here Take a look at the top 3 or 4 If your computer has USB 3.0 ports you would benefit from a drive that is USB 3.0 compatible. It reads/writes data faster. If your USB ports are 2.0 don't worry - USB 3.0 external drive will still work OK Hope that this helps.

This could be your problem. Some DVDs and DVD players are regional. In other words DVDs designated Region 2 are for use in Europe. Region 6 is China. Can you see a region anywhere on the drive? You say it is a cheap one - does it actually say Read and Write ? Could it be Read only ? If you buy a new drive you could end up with the same problem if it is computer related.

Hi Just checked your settings and you should be receiving notification emails. Not sure what went wrong.

Hi, Do you get an error message ? If so let us know what this is please. Can you play music CDs or other CDs ? Is it just the burning that is a problem? Try "Ashampoo" burning software [free] click here See if this is any better. Try a different make of disk. Sometimes one particular make is just not compatible.

Hi, You can get a can of compressed air from any computer retailer. It could be a build-up of dust inside and around the vents. Use the compressed air in short bursts. Prolonged spraying causes the propellant to be expelled as a liquid. Suggest that you do this outside - just in case. Download "Speedfan" [ speedfan 4.52] from here - click here This should give us the motherboard temperatures.

Keep us posted :)

Hi, DO NOT click on the link "Recommended ...." Scroll down for the suggested fixes :)

Hi, Those temperatures look fine. Hopefully you have solved your problem. Let it run for a few more days and let us know how you are getting on.

Hi again, If you are changing the M-Board you will probably find that you have to re-activate Windows again. Windows will probably not be able to identify the new hardware.

Hi again, Thanks for the further details - it does help clarify the problem. If the machine performed normally for 2 days it is unlikely that the strike damaged the motherboard or any other components other than the SSD. I have never heard of a "delayed reaction" to a spike. The components would be damaged at the time - or survive intact. I think that we are agreed that the M-Board has a problem. This could be co-incidence. I am confused regarding the monitor. You say that it displays a picture - but in a previous post you say ... Can you clarify please? Is there a possibility that you had another spike two days after the first? If not then my inclination is to say - yes. There is only one way to find out - and that is to transfer the old components to the new board. I assume that you bought the exact same M-Board again? There is one other thing I would test - and that is the PSU. Just because it is spinning the fans does not mean that it is performing as it should. You can test this with a volt-meter if you have one.

This sounds odd - If the M-Board was taken out then it wouldn't boot up. It works for 2 days then nothing. - ?? Did you use the DVD? If so - at that time the M-Board was detecting the player and, presumably everything else was ok ? So - If I am reading this correctly - The only IMMEDIATE damage following the strike was the SSD. 2 days later the system dies. Is this correct? As you suggest - I too think that the M-Board is at fault. If you were getting screeching through the headphones the sound-card [ or chip if onboard ] could have been taken out too. If the power button is no longer working this too points to the M-Board. ================================ You say that you get nothing on the monitor. Can you try this on another system? - just to confirm that it is OK. Unplug from the wall. Then - remove all cards from the M-Board. { RAM / Video / Sound etc } Leave the monitor connected. Connect power again and switch on. Does the monitor show any signs of life? If so - replace the cards ONE AT A TIME - switching on after each replacement. ================================= You said that the power button doesn't work to turn the machine off. Does it turn the system on? Or is the power button permanently "ON"?

Hi, and welcome to ExTS Are you assuming that the SSD was corrupted or do you know? This is confusing me because if the OS is on your SSD and it is corrupted - how can you use the computer normally ? When you say "Powers up" does Windows load up ? The lightening strike could have taken out the M-Board and damaged other components too. Try the simple things first. You have two RAM modules. Remove one. Try booting up. If no go - swap for the other one and try just that one.

Glad that it worked for you :)

Hi Brian, You didn't answer my questions? Try this - it removes the necessity for a password https://www.pcworld.com/article/3100057/how-to-remove-your-login-password-from-windows-10.html If this is a home computer [and you are happy that it is secure] this is a work-around that will remove the frustration when booting up.

Hi Brian, Is this where you sign in with a password after switching on? Do you need this option? If not it is a simple matter to remove the password so that your machine boots straight up. Does the date and time show correctly? [ bottom right of screen ] Sometimes the CMOS battery can cause this problem. You could try ..... When the screen appears [ no option to put in password ] press any key Hold down CTRL and ALT and press the DEL key at the same time. This may give you the password box

Hi Brian - is this an Apple machine ? [ just looking at your profile ]

Hi, Thanks for the update. Let us know how things go after you get rid of the grime on that fan :)

Hi, How are you copying and pasting ? Highlight then CTRL + C / CTRL + V or Highlight then right click > Copy / right click > Paste. Try the one that you don't normally use. Is it in Chrome that the problem arises ? Do you have a different browser to try? If this is a recent problem - have you tried System Restore to a date just prior to the start of the issue ? I have been doing a bit of reading on this and, whilst it is a common problem, the answers are few and far between.

If you have "Stay signed in" checked then it could be that you are deleting the yahoo cookie after each session. A cookie is a small piece of software that tells Yahoo that you are a returning customer. If the cookie is deleted then you will be treated as a first time login. If you are using Edge [ as per your profile ] Type ....edge ..... into the search bar [ bottom left of screen ] Click on Microsoft Edge in the left panel. [ Edge will open ] Click on the three dots [ top right ] Scroll down to "Settings" Scroll down to " What to Clear" and click on this Check to see if "Always Clear This When I Close The Browser" is Off. If it is On then change it. Alternatively - uncheck the box next to "Cookies and Saved Web Data " You can then leave "Always Clear This ......... " set to ON.

Hi blkbrd37, I have split your post from the other one - you are better with your own .........less complicated :) To clarify : When you login to your Yahoo Mail you expect it to go directly to your Inbox but you are asked to login with your email address every time. It automatically fills in your password. Is this correct ? When you login - do you have "Stay Signed In" checked ?

I have had this before - not with Outlook :( The solution that I found was to log into the server and change the password there. Then when you are prompted for the password input the new one. Another thought .... see my post here about Cookies - click here

Depends on the Motherboard that is fitted. It is the M-B that decides the max RAM Download Belarc from here - click here Install and run it. It will analyse the hardware on your laptop. What does it say under "Main Circuit Board" ?

If you use the Crucial scan [ download ] it should indicate if the RAM needs to be a matched pair. It is good practice to have a matched pair of modules installed. If the RAM is not matched then the system will run slower. 2 x 2GB is better than 1 x 4GB This may not be noticeable - it obviously varies from machine to machine. If you are going to up-grade then you may as well do it properly. I have looked again and cannot find anywhere that says that you can go above 8GB with your machine.

This indicates that there is a problem with the website itself not the browser. It is not advisable to access or attempt to access this site until the issue is fixed. If, however, you are sure that the site is safe to use - you could try the following: you can disable OCSP: [ Online Certificate Status Protocol ] in a FF browser location bar type ...........about:config in the filter box, type............ security double-click the entry "security.OCSP.enabled" and change the 1 to a 0 It is NOT advisable to leave this setting at 0 as other websites with similar problems will be allowed to run. After accessing the site change the 0 back to a 1

I looked at the M-Board specs for your laptop. The specified M-B that I found suggested 8GB max. If this is the case then if you put more in - it would not be recognised. If you put your specific details into this Crucial site this will confirm - click here You can input the details or download the scanner on the right hand side [ or both ] [ you need to agree to the terms and conditions ]