KenB

Best of luck :)

Hi and welcome to ExTS Take the hard drive out and re-seat it again. It could have come loose.

You can adjust the brightness using the Fn key and ( on mine ) left and right arrow. This may improve it a little more.

Animation. Take a look here: The animation was done by my nephew. It has been entered in a competition.

Hi GRANDAD Have you solved your problem ?

From the manufactures Specs: [TABLE=class: specTableSquare, width: 600, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: innerDark, width: 265, bgcolor: #EDEDED]Maximum GPU Temperature (in C)[/TD] [TD=class: innerLight, bgcolor: #F4F4F4, align: center][/TD] [TD=class: innerLight, bgcolor: #F4F4F4, align: center]99 C[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I have given you my opinion - if you are not happy with it you are welcome to wait for another. We are still waiting for a reply here: http://extremetechsupport.com/threads/12645-Computer-Getting-too-Hot-when-playing-games-Help?p=81707#post81707

Hi, 76 deg C whilst working hard does not see over hot ( in my opinion ). What is the idling temperature - when you are not pushing the card ? You could try taking the side cover off the case and see if that makes a significant difference. Check all case fans and make sure they are working and also check the Card fan to see if that is rotating. The temp does seem OK for a Video Card that is working hard.

There are now 3 posts to read :) Nev may be on to something with AV / Firewall. Try disabling both and running the software. Don't forget to enable them again.

It certainly looks as if the problem is at their end. I suggested that you try a different computer as, if IP Addresses are blocked sometimes they can also block innocent people. I don't know what else we can suggest from here. I believe the answer will lie in the Hotmail Forums - if you can get hold of the right person. It seems to be a common problem: http://windowslivehelp.com/thread.aspx?threadid=608f0e85-70e6-49d1-9a19-3d29d15f54dc

Hi, No need to apologise :) This is normal - and as far as we are concerned it is good as it suggests that the motherboard hardware ( Video card, RAM etc) checks out ok. The one beep is the Power On Self Test procedure confirming that all is OK. You say that you have AVG and Avast on the system. We need to get rid of AVG. 2 AVs will conflict and cause problems. The version of AVG - is this AVG Antivirus 2011 Take a look here: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/virus-removal/remove-avg-antivirus-2011 Or - do you have the legitimate version ? Does AVG show up in Add / Remove? If it does - remove it from there. There is an AVG removal tool here: http://www.avg.com/us-en/utilities Give this a try. If this was connected to your system and the main drive was infected - there is a possibility that the external drive could be infected too. Do not connect this drive to any system until we get your primary drive sorted. How did you rid the system of the infections? ============= Bring me up to date ..... When you switch on - can you actually boot up now? If not.... Can you get to the Advanced Startup Options by tapping F8 about once per second after switching on? If you can get this far - Can you boot up in Safe Mode? Sorry for all the questions - but it saves asking one at a time :)

I would be inclined to give them a ring. Usually they can direct you to a printable label ( postage paid ) for the return. I would return both and get a direct replacement.

You are very welcome. Happy that it was that simple :)

I assume we ARE having problems with a desktop and not a laptop ?? ================= I was referring to what I had written in post 13. ( copied in blue below ) If you are not getting any POST beeps ( assuming there is an internal speaker connected ) it is not going to boot up. If you get one POST beep this is normal - stop here and post back. ============== If you get NO POST beeps continue from here: Switch off at the wall socket. If this machine is still not booting and no POST beeps try the following: Take all external hardware off ( monitor / printer / external drive ) Take the power and data cables off the Primary and secondary hard drives. Take all cards ( Video / Sound / RAM etc off the motherboard ) Leave only the 20(4) way cable from the PSU connected. Switch on. You should get POST beeps. ( assuming a speaker is present ). POST beeps at this stage - no matter how many - are good. Fans should spin. If all seems normal leave it switched on to see if it is stable. If it remains stable then switch off. Add the keyboard. switch on again. It should POST - fans run - keyboard LEDs flash and the power one stays on. Test again to see if it is stable. Switch off. Add the Video Card ( if you have one ) Run through the process again. You should get POST beeps at each stage - the sequence may change - but as long as we are getting beeps. Keep adding one card then one connection at a time - testing for stability after each one. If the system is fine then hangs after adding a card or connection you have identified the cause of your problem. This has to be done logically. Once you have the motherboard with all of the removable cards etc taken off - when you switch on you should get POST beeps. This is what we are hoping for :)

Hi and welcome to ExTS Your problem may not be related to the Video Card. Try taking one of the RAM modules out and boot up with the other in place. if you get the same error - swap the modules over and try again. Let me know the results.

Let us know how the new hardware makes a difference :)

No problem :) This is a standard Hosts file for Win7 If you trust me to try it for you send me a PM with your login details and a link to the appropriate Hotmail login. Other than that - Try logging on from a friend's machine ( Different IP Address ) to see if you can log in from there.

I found this - Is yours the same? http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&taskId=125&prodSeriesId=3550541&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=3550541&objectID=c01353778

As Neil says - that PSU only has 1 PCIe 6 pin connectors. It does, however, have 3 Molex power connections ( They usually have more ) You can get a Molex to 6 pin PCIe adapter - but you need 2 spare Molex Connections. I don't like making recommendations as normally members have a budget. I would suggest buying OCZ / Antec / Corsair You have to pay more but a decent PSU is a must as everything in the case relies on it. They are, however, more expensive. If you want to go cheaper I suggest that you read the reviews.

Hi It looks like one of the new modules may be faulty. Go back to the original 2 and run the system to make sure that they, at least, are OK. If they are, add one of the new modules ( not both ) Run the system again. If it runs OK - take this module out and put in the other module. If you get a Blue Screen with any of the single additions you have found the problem module.

Where is the position of the fan on your present PSU ? ( back / top / side ) Your PSU dimensions: Dimensions: 150mm x 140mm x 86mm Your case is a Mid ATX and your PSU from the sizes - is a standard ATX PSU. No The Video Card is self-cooling. The PSU will not run significantly hotter. You could - later on - fit another fan if the temps were too high .....but unlikely.

You are going to have to gain access to the inside of your case if you want answers. 1. As Neil says - those temps look normal ......apart from the Video Card ( It depends what you were doing ). 2. The video card is unlikely to create that much heat to cause the case to "soften". This is an aluminium case isn't it ? 3. The wattage of the PSU does not necessarily mean that it will throw out all 750W. The components draw what they need. We do need to know what the Wattage is though - to see if it is appropriate for your Video Card and system. Please try to gain access to your case otherwise we are at a stand-still.

Hi Graham and welcome to ExTS Thank you for the link - it certainly saved my time looking for the specs. You have a PCIe x 16 slot on the motherboard. This is where your present card will be situated. The nvidia geforce gtx 560 ti 1gb is PCIe so it will be a direct swap. Note: It needs 2 PCIe 6 pin power connectors ( supplied from PSU ) From what I can discover - it requires a PSU with a minimum of 500Watts Your present PSU falls just short. If you are considering upgrading the PSU I would certainly consider 700Watts or more. It is a wide card and will block the expansion slot immediately next to the PCIe x 16 slot.

Download Speccy from here: http://www.piriform.com/speccy Install and run it. It will give you lots of system info - and the motherboard and CPU temps. 1. Post the temps when the machine is not under any load ( not playing games ) 2. If you leave Speccy running and play a game - post the different temps now please. 3. Is the case just hot in one specific place ( above the PSU ) or is it hot over the whole of the top. Heat will travel - so is it the same temperature over the whole of the top? Possibly - it really depends on how hot your case is getting and what is causing it to get hot.

Hi This is a bit worrying if it is happening. The case will be made from aluminium. Melting Point in the region of 660 deg C. If the heat is changing the structure of the case ( Softening ) it must be pretty hot !! Is the case hot above the Power Supply Unit - or is it somewhere else ? Please identify exactly where on the case is getting hot. I suggest that you limit the use of the pc until we identify the source of the heat.